More brake problems

[wipeout]

I just put a new RR caliper and rear lines going from calipers to flex hose which i replaced last year. Also a rebuilt master cylinder. Now im not getting any pressure to the rear brakes.

I have also bled the master cylinder twice so far. Is there a way or a need to reset the proportioning valve.

I havent tried bleeding the fronts cause my wife got tired and wanted to go to bed.

Thanks

[GerryLP]

Wipeout,

If you are still getting a "brake light" illumination, try closing all the bleed points and step on the brake pedal until it extinguishes the light. The manual says that once the light is on, and you have fixed the problem, then you have to build-up 435 psi of pressure before the proportioning valve resets the switch.

[wipeout]

When you bleed the master cylinder how far in do you push the piston. Says in the instructions to only move it 1 inch. But if I push it further more bubbles come out.

Also how long does it usually take to bleed it.

[GerryLP]

Originally Posted by wipeout

When you bleed the master cylinder how far in do you push the piston. Says in the instructions to only move it 1 inch. But if I push it further more bubbles come out.

Also how long does it usually take to bleed it.

It took me a little while too. You should feel the force counter acting your push to be more smooth. I pushed it a little further in on every fourth stroke...but I couldn't tell you what effect that had (my first time revamping the Vette's master cylinder as well).

Did you get the bench-bleeding kit to do it?

[wipeout]

All i got was some plugs for the ports. Per the instructions it said to install the plugs and the cover and push the piston in and out no more than 1 inch until it is firm.

Didnt ever seem to become firm. But i only did it for like 2 minutes.


Usually i use some old brake lines and route them back into the reservoirs.

Im gonna try doing it again tonight and see what happens.

[JohnZ]

Here's the bench-bleeding setup - continue to push on the rear piston until you don't see bubbles any more; push for full strokes, just don't "jam" it hard at the end of the stroke. If you don't go full stroke, you won't get the air out.

[GerryLP]

JohnZ's set-up is the best yet. The clear tubes in the kit are bit of a pain to slide over the soft fitting nipples. The rubber hose seems to work fine.

I have used the bent-brake-line set-up, but the size of the line (diameter) to accommodate the "B" nut size for the ports is too large to fill and purge the trapped air.

In my local Auto-Zone, I asked them if since I had purchased the repair kit there, would they give me one of their spare bleeding kits, and just like that, I walked-out with one bleeding kit.

[wipeout]

Thanks for all the help guys finally got her going. Hooked up the old brake lines and pushed that piston in and out for like a good 20 minutes just to make shure. Lots of pressure now.