One more question about my intake manifold

76okievette · 03-03-07, 12:09 AM

Should I use any gasket sealer when reinstalling the manifold? If so where?

GerryLP · 03-03-07, 12:21 AM

Okievette,

I have used gasket sealer on the gaskets and contact areas of the head and intake. I feel it provides a nice protection against air leaks. I have never had a problem since I started using them.

Edelbrock makes "Gascasinch" gasket sealer and it is pretty good. I have also used the Permatex copper gasket sealer (on a pinch), and I have not had problems with air leaks either.

It definitely improves sealing on gaskets that do not have the silicon bead around the port openings. The gaskets that have the silicon bead around the port openings are pretty good in sealing, but I have never used one long enough to tell if they would leak after "X" miles or months.

76okievette · 03-03-07, 12:23 AM

Great Gerry, I was thinking I should use some kind of sealer just was not sure. What about the seals at the front and rear it looks like I should use some sealer on those also, any ideas?

GerryLP · 03-03-07, 12:46 AM

Let me tell you about the front and rear seals. Some folks have had bad experiences using them, and some of them would perhaps tell you to throw them away and just use some high temp RTV bead along the front and rear channels.

I can't fault them, once you have a bad experience, it is hard to act any other way, but I have done it both ways, and I have not had problems.

I have been a bit eager in the past while installing an intake or two using the RTV bead along the channels, and I have set the intake down and then thought in checking that the valley is clear of debris, and I have lifted the intake back-up again.

Once it is set-down, it should not be lifted again. Otherwise, the RTV could spill-over the side toward the lifter valley, so the only way to get out of this mess is to lift it back out and clean it all up, and then try again. But with the rail seals, this would not happen. If the rail seals are used (and I prefer using the cork material ones Vs, the rubber/plastic ones), a small bead of RTV still is needed at the end of the rail seals to plug that area between the head, the rail, and the intake.

At any rate, you don't want bits of RTV left in the valley. With the engine heat, it will cure, and then it will float and flow where ever the oil goes. It is known to have plugged oil channels in the crankshaft and blocked precious lubricating oil to bearings.

bmotojoe · 03-03-07, 01:28 AM

Myself, I would never use any sealant on the intake manifold gasket, except at the front and rear of manifold where the black rubber seals sit across the block. I use OEM Black about ¼” high at both places and not use the replacement black rubber seals that comes in the new set of gaskets. I cut some small lengths of kite string and tie the new gaskets through the manifold bolt holes and new gaskets so the manifold gaskets stay in place. When I get the front and rear bolts on each side of the manifold started I cut the strings and pull them out.
Brian

76okievette · 03-03-07, 12:18 PM

Thanks all I will attempt to do this next week and let you all know how it comes out.

fine69 · 03-03-07, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 76okievette

Thanks all I will attempt to do this next week and let you all know how it comes out.

Hey Okie,

Edelbrock "Gascasinch" that Gerry mentioned works great. DO NOT use the front and rear rubber seals that come with the gasket set.

For my intake replacement, I used the Gascacinch sealant on the gasket areas. By allowing the sealant to cure for a bit first, it becomes tacky to the touch and will hold the gasket into place for installation. Also, I found that Gascacinch is somewhat forgiving if you need to remove the particular part... it cleans up easily.

I also used Permatex copper sealant for the ends. Apply a thick bead and let it cure for five minutes or so (depending on the outdoor temperature).

One thing to note, when I put my intake manifold in place, I lightly tightened up the bolts - evenly, and let it sit ALL DAY. This allowed the front and rear sealant to set up. I torqued the intake manifold to spec after a good six hours had past.

I've replaced my intake twice (stock to Edelbrock Performer RPM, then to Performer) doing the install the way I described, and have had no leaks.

Let us know how this works out for you.

Ralph

Save the Wave

DarkShark · 03-04-07, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 76okievette

Thanks all I will attempt to do this next week and let you all know how it comes out.

I've always had great luck with Fel-Pro.

Here is what I do:
- Run a thin bead (almost a smear) along the rear to help out with the rubber strips and then a thicker bead in the corners (I do this to help join the corners together better)
- Run a thin bead of RTV around the water passages at the front and rear of the intake.
- Always scrape the mating surfaces down with a razor blade. I take the usual precautions and put something down to protect debris from falling into places it shouldn't.
- I also use a vacuum to pull out anything I can't see. Once the manifold is on- I usually put the vacuum into the distributor provision and crank up the suction. If I hear the motor bog, then I know the seals are good.

76okievette · 03-05-07, 06:06 PM

Great that is my job for Saturday, I have the intake and rebuilt just sitting on the engine and it all looks great, I have new intake bolts arriving tomorrow so will start the install Saturday.

JohnZ · 03-05-07, 06:52 PM

Be sure and use thread sealer on all but the four extreme corner intake bolts - keeps lifter valley oil from "wicking" up the bolt threads and staining the intake from under the bolt heads.

76okievette · 03-06-07, 08:25 PM

Great I had not though of that, what about all the crud currently in the bolt hole's. My only though on cleaning them out is a small wire brush like you have in a gun cleaning kit, any other suggestions?

minifridge1138 · 03-09-07, 06:27 PM

They make taps specifically for cleaning existing threads. You should be able to find a tap set at any hardware store (ACE, Lowes, Home Depot, etc). My set has saved me a lot of aggravation.

Good luck

76okievette · 03-10-07, 10:04 PM

Thanks, I just bought a 38 Cal. pistol cleaning brush it worked perfect. Now if I could just get the car to run

. When I got the carb and intake all reinstalled I started the car and it started right up and ran great. I did see a little water leak at the thermostate housing so I shut down, after about 15 minutes told run time. I got a new thermostate and gasket and replaced it all put all the covers and air cleaner back on then tried to start the car, no go. It acted like it was flooded, if I held the throttle all the way to the floor it would start and run very rough at about 8 to 10 RPM as soon as I let up on the throttle it would guit. I waited a couple of hours but the same thing happened. I am going to try again tomorrow then I guess it a tow job to the guy that rebuile the carb, unless any has any suggestions.

bossvette · 03-11-07, 10:27 AM

a little trick I use to clean out bolt holes is to take a new grade 8 and grind a notch in the end of it like a cutting edge; it will clean out the threads without cutting any of the original thread away.

JohnZ · 03-11-07, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by minifridge1138

They make taps specifically for cleaning existing threads. You should be able to find a tap set at any hardware store (ACE, Lowes, Home Depot, etc). My set has saved me a lot of aggravation.

Good luck

Don't ask for "taps" - ask for "thread chasers" - they clean both male and female threads without "cutting" or removing any metal.