Clutch friction plate

[Kid_Again]

.....dropped the bb tranny before everybody woke up to unwrap presents.....the friction plate may not have been put in correctly the first time around....

the spring pack sticks out farther on one side than the other - which side faces the flywheel? (it's a centerforce)

thanks and Merry Christmas!!!!

[bossvette]

the side that sticks out the furthest does not go against the flywheel, I have seen people try to put them together backwards and the clutch won't release.

[Kid_Again]

Originally Posted by bossvette

the side that sticks out the furthest does not go against the flywheel, I have seen people try to put them together backwards and the clutch won't release.

thanks!

[IH2LOSE]

What made you pull the clutch?

How does the flywheel look.

I run a lux set up on my 66 its served me well so so far.

I remember something about center fource from the other web site some years ago about having to remove one of the springs from the clutch set up or the pedal would stay to the floor under hig RPMS

Any body else remember this

[bossvette]

I remember something about a diaphram type clutch if it travels past center it will stay open, I seem to remember setting it with a feeler gage; a long time ago.

[Kid_Again]

the reason that i pulled the tranny is i had very little play in the clutch (it would grab 'way up at the top) and i had problems shifting from 3/4 (it would grind)...

the trans has about 2,500 miles on it and it was rebuilt by ed hartnett

i had absolutely no problems with the trans when it was behind the original 427

the problems occurred once i replaced the 427 with the zz440 and i noticed a problem right away, if i would hit it in second gear, it would pop out of gear (no noise, just popped out)...i was able to dial out most of the other problems by adjusting out just about all the free play from the clutch but it is clear that something was wrong

the problem is DEFINITELY not the shifter linkage since i have a lift and can take all the time i want to adjust it, there are no problems there

obviously, i originally put the friction plate (worn evenly) in correctly and the throw out bearing does not look fried and it was seated correctly, the pressure plate was tight and evenly affixed..the bell housing run-out was set up per centerforce instructions and i believe that was less than .005"....correct flywheel, refaced about 2500 miles ago, correct shifter fork, correct shifter rod to the z-arm and correct height for the shifter fork ball stud.......the only difference, really is the engine in front of the bell housing

the only thing that caught my attention was the trans tail stock was VERY tight down against the frame cross member...i have side pipes and have always replaced the trans exhaust pipe hanger with shims but this one just didn't look right, it should be tight but not to the point where i had to jack the oil pan to pull the shims.......i had absolutely no vibration, no unusual harmonics

any thoughts? again, the major problem was little clutch adjustment was left and grinding between 3/4

[JL66REDCPE]

Joe - Merry Christmas -- You didnt happen to also change the clutch cross shaft or clutch fork rod when you changed motors did you ?? Also, are all the motor mounts ok -- loose, broke, etc ??

[Kid_Again]

Hey John, Merry Christmas to you also!

Absolutely nothing changed except that I swapped out the engine. I'll check the motor mounts but nothing caught my eye first time around