ugh maniufold has to come off PART 2

firstgear · 12-04-06, 09:15 PM

ok...I got some details this time.....here we go

Here is the photo....

The gap on the right is 0.000", and the gap on the far left is 0.046"

The gasket that came with the distributor is 0.090" thick.

Seems to me that this will work and not puke oil all over.....thoughts?

Herb

Tom Bryant · 12-05-06, 12:31 AM

Why would the distributor appear cocked when installed unless the distributor housing was machined incorrectly (unlikely) or the surface of the pad on the manifold is not parallel to the base where the manifold meets the block (likely) or that the distributor hole is bored off center ever so slightly (more likely). The manifold may not have been set up properly prior to that machining operation. Mistakes happen.

I would first check that the surface of the distributor pad is parallel to the manifold base. If it is and there is no run out on the base of the distributor housing then the only thing left is that the bore is off.

I think that the manifold has to come back off. I would not want to run the distributor cocked even slightly. If the bore is found to be off center I'd ask for a replacement manifold.

Tom

Kid_Again · 12-05-06, 07:44 AM

...hate to say it, but i agree...time to go back to basics...a thicker gasket will work but it doesn't fix the basic problem...BTDT

Tom Bryant · 12-05-06, 08:20 AM

I didn't think about it last night but could this also be why the distributor hit the manifold and had to be ground off?

I'm sorry Herb. I know we are making a miserable day for you.

grapeknutz · 12-05-06, 08:26 AM

It does sound as if the center line of the distributor bore is not right. check it with a stock manifold and see if the distributor sits any better.

firstgear · 12-05-06, 11:39 AM

I am told that the small block chevy has two bores that the distributor goes through in the engine block and it uses those bores to line up the distributor. If that is indeed true, then the top is just there to seal against. The real fit is inside the block not the top bore on the manifold, which makes sense. You wouldn't want to fit tight with any kind of tolerance through a bolted up surface that wasn't somehow piloted or dowel pinned. the intake manifold is none of those, it is bolted on so the hole in it should be nothing more than a clearance hole since the alignment happens in the block.

So I think the real issue is the clearance and the ability to seal up against it.

How does that fly?

Herb

Kid_Again · 12-05-06, 12:50 PM

Hmmmm....not sure

Can you rock the distributor back and forth in the block now or is it jammed down in there? Did you have any problems with this block before? If not, then the problem is with whatever you added susequent to the build up. Heck, putting a straight edge down the throat with the manifold on and using a strong light should give you a good approximation of linearity.

I had an allegedly new set of Dart heads that were machined incorrectly so I don't think you can trust anything these days.

Hey Herb......lookit your picture up top of this page, the passenger's side manifold at the rear either looks like it doesn't fit snug on the head or it's a shadow?

JohnZ · 12-05-06, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstgear

I am told that the small block chevy has two bores that the distributor goes through in the engine block and it uses those bores to line up the distributor. If that is indeed true, then the top is just there to seal against. The real fit is inside the block not the top bore on the manifold, which makes sense. You wouldn't want to fit tight with any kind of tolerance through a bolted up surface that wasn't somehow piloted or dowel pinned. the intake manifold is none of those, it is bolted on so the hole in it should be nothing more than a clearance hole since the alignment happens in the block.

So I think the real issue is the clearance and the ability to seal up against it.

How does that fly?

Herb

That's correct - the stock distributor is located in the block bore by the two machined annular rings near the bottom, and by another one 2-3/4" above those (photo below); there's also a slightly larger "pilot" just below the clamping flange that locates it in the hole in the manifold. If the distributor drops right in and seats on the manifold, it's properly centered.

It appears that the seating surface on the manifold isn't machined parallel with the mating surface on the flange on the distributor; I doubt if that's a functional issue as much as it's a sealing issue. There's no oil pressure there and a thick/soft gasket would probably take care of it, but it would bother me, just knowing it was there and wasn't right.

grapeknutz · 12-05-06, 03:31 PM

One other thing to check is the distributor gear to cam gear to see it they mesh in the right spot! ( oh the joy of modding a engine )

firstgear · 12-05-06, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnZ

That's correct - the stock distributor is located in the block bore by the two machined annular rings near the bottom, and by another one 2-3/4" above those (photo below); there's also a slightly larger "pilot" just below the clamping flange that locates it in the hole in the manifold. If the distributor drops right in and seats on the manifold, it's properly centered.

It appears that the seating surface on the manifold isn't machined parallel with the mating surface on the flange on the distributor; I doubt if that's a functional issue as much as it's a sealing issue. There's no oil pressure there and a thick/soft gasket would probably take care of it, but it would bother me, just knowing it was there and wasn't right.

John, let me borrow some of those rags for a while....they are way too clean!!!! You always have the nicest toys to show and share....even your rags are nice!!!!

JohnZ · 12-06-06, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstgear

John, let me borrow some of those rags for a while....they are way too clean!!!! You always have the nicest toys to show and share....even your rags are nice!!!!

I buy the shop rags in bundles of 12 at Murray's, and throw them out when they get nasty - if my wife saw me heading for the laundry room to throw oily/greasy shop rags in the washer, I'd have to find alternate living arrangements; learned that lesson many years ago.

Kid_Again · 12-06-06, 07:46 PM

well, that explains the clean rags. I have my "own" washer/dryer downstairs that is cleaned out every now and then with poisonous chemicals to eliminate the "ring around the washer". Next is the dishwasher she's eyeing to replace - becomes the new parts washer. If I get the old electric oven, I can then powder coat manifolds with ease. Turkeys, manifolds, whatever.

I have to say that my distributor was a "bit" high in the saddle and it leaked LIKE HELL at the base when I had a single standard gasket back there. A big thick gasket solved the problem completely...but I couldn't live with it because I knew that I didn't address the essential problem. It's either correct or wrong.

iron cross · 12-07-06, 04:39 AM

I just saw this thread and might add if not already done is to place the old distributor in the hole and see what happens. If the same result, then it`s probably the manifold.

Vetsvette2002 · 12-07-06, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnZ

I buy the shop rags in bundles of 12 at Murray's, and throw them out when they get nasty - if my wife saw me heading for the laundry room to throw oily/greasy shop rags in the washer, I'd have to find alternate living arrangements; learned that lesson many years ago.

I just take all shop towels to a laundromat

My wife would not be pleased about her washer & dryer getting greased either.

00fxd · 12-07-06, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnZ

I buy the shop rags in bundles of 12 at Murray's, and throw them out when they get nasty - if my wife saw me heading for the laundry room to throw oily/greasy shop rags in the washer, I'd have to find alternate living arrangements; learned that lesson many years ago.

So I guess there's no parts in the dishwasher eh, big guy??