It's pretty simple. There are two small bolts at each end of the caliper that hold the caliper to guide pins that are in the caliper mounting bracket. Remove them and carefully slide the caliper off. The pads will probably fall out so grab each one and mark them to indicate which is inside and outside. The backing plates are different so if you are doing new pads, just match the plates with the old ones.
There are two bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket to the hub. They are fairly tight at 70 ft-lbs and they did come with a threadlocker applied to the threads. The higher you can get the car/suspension the better, so you can get a breaker bar in there to loosen the bolts. All the bolts are metric.
Once the mounting bracket is off, the rotor simply slides off the wheel studs. Then slide the new rotor on. Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket. For this step, you can reuse the bolts by cleaning off the old threadlocker material with a wire brush and apply some Fel-Pro or Permatex BLUE threadlocker (the service manual says to use new bolts but that's because the GM bolts already have a threadlocker applied).
Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 70 ft-lbs in two steps. Place the caliper over the rotor and onto the bracket while inserting the pads. The caliper piston will hve to be compressed back into the bore if you are installing new pads. Note the W-shaped springs on the pads. The ends of the springs have to tuck up inside the caliper.
Suck out about a 1/2" worth of fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with a turkey baster before pushing the piston in. You can use a large C-clamp to push the piston in.
Re-install the small bolts thru the holes on the caliper and hold the guide pin with an open-end wrench while you torque the small bolts to 24 ft-lbs. Refill the M/C reservoir with fresh fluid.
|
Art
Linear Mode
