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C3 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1968 - 1982 Corvettes.

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Old 10-04-06, 10:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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F14JetJock is offline
 
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Default Alternator Wiring

Sorry,
I saw this info posted before but couldn't find it again. The alternator has a two wire plug (brown and red) going into prongs labled 1 and 2, on the side of the case. Which one does the red wire go on (1 or 2)? Is this red wire connected to the field?
Thanks.
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Old 10-04-06, 10:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I can look tomorrow on my 68 but it is parked outside and its raining now.

do you have an external voltage regulator on the 69?
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Old 10-04-06, 10:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No. The alternator was updated with an internal voltage regulator.
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Old 10-05-06, 03:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F14JetJock View Post
Sorry,
I saw this info posted before but couldn't find it again. The alternator has a two wire plug (brown and red) going into prongs labled 1 and 2, on the side of the case. Which one does the red wire go on (1 or 2)? Is this red wire connected to the field?
Thanks.
Jock,

The smaller red wire goes to the #2 post on the alternator. Just as the larger red wire (which connects to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator), it's circuited to the battery.

So that leaves the brown wire going to the #1 post. This wire is connected to the warning lamp which when the ignition switch is turned to the on position, completes the circuit for the brown wire and "alerts" the alternator for operation. The shop manual also states that it protects the diode trio as well which I believe is used to change the alternator current from Ac to DC.

GerryLP
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Old 10-10-06, 10:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the post, Gerry. I hooked it up and still no voltage output (just the 12 volts from the battery on the BAT post). I think my voltage regulator gave up the ghost (the three diodes checked ok). I'll try swapping out the regulator and see if that does the trick.
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Old 10-10-06, 12:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Take the alternator to a parts house and have them test it first (most the biggies have Alternator Testers)... Before you buy a replacement and try it You may end up needing a new or reguilt one.... AND IF you do be sure the mounting is correct if not have them remove the face and adjust it, ALSO be sure it is an exact match for your pulley and belts, if not They can / will take your old pulley off and mount it on the new Alt.

Bud
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Old 10-10-06, 05:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If your alt. is the original, I would have it rebuilt to keep it more original, if that matters. You can get it rebuilt for usually the same price, and maybe rebuilt better. Make sure of what they are replacing: bearings etc. before agreeing to price.
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Old 10-11-06, 02:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I took it to a local alternator shop. It was a bad voltage regulator. The shop tested the unit, put in a new regulator and capacitor, for less than I could have done the work myself ($30). It works great...now on to the power steering leak! Great idea to have the work done!
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