Installing shims on offset trailing arms?

Wilkinshc · 08-11-06, 11:30 PM

I am installing shims on new offset trailing arms and have two problems:

1. I am trying to install the same width shims as I took out but I can not get no where the size in. I am figuring that the new bushings are wider then the old ones and I am reducing each side by the same amount and squeezing the most I can get in. Is this the best idea?

2. The inside amount of shims are about twice the outside but with the offset trailing arms, the arms are hitting the shims. Should I lift them to the top so they don't hit or cut them shorter so they don't hit, or is there something else I should be doing?

any other tips anyone might have on installing the trailing arms?

Thanks for any help guys.

Chuck

67HEAVEN · 08-12-06, 07:47 AM

Chuck,

I'm puzzled by the problem. When I installed offset trailing arms, I used new shims, but exactly the same width as the original shims. When I went for an alignment, it was almost dead on.

I drilled small holes in the frame to permit the use of a cotter pin (like they started doing in the C3's) through the frame and shims, holding the shims in place. I got the hole location from a C3 frame and it resulted in the shims sitting very low down in the "box".

paul67 · 08-12-06, 08:49 AM

The shims should sit below the arm and as noted can be held in place by a long cotter pin. Here is my setup with the cotter pin in place.

Wilkinshc · 08-12-06, 12:52 PM

I measured the bushings and the width of the old ones were 2 5/16 and the ones are 2 1/2.

Also my shims that I recieved from volunteer vette are rectangler in shape and a lot longer then the ones pictured in pauls67 post.

So I need to order new ones or cut these down. Where do you get the shorter shims from?

Thanks
Chuck

paul67 · 08-12-06, 02:28 PM

Do your shims look like this? Or do they have holes at each end. If the latter, the trailing arm bolts have to be removed each time you do an alignment.

67HEAVEN · 08-12-06, 03:32 PM

Same shims here.

61 Silver · 08-12-06, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paul67

Do your shims look like this? Or do they have holes at each end. If the latter, the trailing arm bolts have to be removed each time you do an alignment.

When I set up the trailing arms on my 63 I use the 1/16" first style shim with double holes on each side of the trailing arm. I then used the second design shim with the slot to fill the space during the alignment process. I then used plastic tie wraps through the end holes to secure the shims. If I decide to have the car judged I will just cut the tie wraps.

Ray

Kid_Again · 08-14-06, 09:50 AM

Can't help on the technical side but I used shims that had round holes at each end. I then cut a diagonal slot going from the center and ending at the hole on one end only. That allows me to drop the shims in from the top and pulling on it locks it into place. Looks stock from the bottom. Never fall out, no ties, no nuthin. But that's for my C2s.

61 Silver · 08-14-06, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kid_Again

Can't help on the technical side but I used shims that had round holes at each end. I then cut a diagonal slot going from the center and ending at the hole on one end only. That allows me to drop the shims in from the top and pulling on it locks it into place. Looks stock from the bottom. Never fall out, no ties, no nuthin. But that's for my C2s.

Great idea!

Ray

Wilkinshc · 08-14-06, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kid_Again

Can't help on the technical side but I used shims that had round holes at each end. I then cut a diagonal slot going from the center and ending at the hole on one end only. That allows me to drop the shims in from the top and pulling on it locks it into place. Looks stock from the bottom. Never fall out, no ties, no nuthin. But that's for my C2s.

Sorry but I am not following you, can you post a pic?

Thanks
Chuck

Kid_Again · 08-15-06, 08:03 AM

I'm a bit unfocused now since I just resigned from my current job

. It may take some time for me to sober up.

Maybe this will help. Picture a shim which has two holes punched on either end. Starting at one of the bolt holes, use a cutting wheel to elongate the slot at about a 45* angle towards the center. The slot has to be at least as wide as the bolt hole. Now, you have a 45* slot cut in one end of the shim. Insert the shim from the top of the trailing arm, it should catch about 1/3 of the way up the shim. When you drop the shim onto the pivot bolt, you pull it towards the back of the car and it slides down and locks. I'll see if I have one made up tonight when (if) I get home.

Lesse here, 8AM, time for a Martini.