Starter problem??

[FFAST87]

On two seperate occasions My 87 failed to start up. Whats happening is I put the key in ignition, turn and nothing. The dash lights up, everything appears normal...but the engine does not turn over...no clicking or anything...
I give the car a few minutes...try a few more times....then it will start. Is this a starter on it's way out...or an ignition short???

[Ezmunie]

Originally Posted by FFAST87

On two seperate occasions My 87 failed to start up. Whats happening is I put the key in ignition, turn and nothing. The dash lights up, everything appears normal...but the engine does not turn over...no clicking or anything...
I give the car a few minutes...try a few more times....then it will start. Is this a starter on it's way out...or an ignition short???

Mine did the exact same thing about two months ago. After thinking it was the VATS, and doing a by-pass, which did not help, I replaced the starter. It has been working fine ever since. My starter did, however, give me a little warning, as it would drag every now and then, kinda like a low battery.

[Edmond]

Many automotive places offer free testing of the starter. You just have to take it to them and they'll test it. I would suggest doing that. If you do find that it is the starter that needs to be replaced, go with the Delco unit. Personally, I find that when it comes to replacing electrical parts, the OEM pieces are the best because they know their tolerances best.

If you do get a new starter, by all mean, get a package of shims. Even if the old starter didn't have shims, the new one might need it. Almost nothing is more of a waste of time than running back to the store for a pack of $3.00 shims...

[Baldie88]

Mine did the exact same thing. If you turn the key and nothing happens, not even a clicking sound in the starter, you might want to consider the stater enable relay. I have already bypassed the VATS so I knew that wasn't the problem. My relay was intermittant. I left it at my dealer and after 2 weeks and 100 start attempts it finally didn't start and they traced it to the starter enable relay. It's behind the DIC in the dash. Just on the oft chance, also make sure your battery cables are tight.

Ron
"Baldie88"

[FFAST87]

Originally Posted by Baldie88

Mine did the exact same thing. If you turn the key and nothing happens, not even a clicking sound in the starter, you might want to consider the stater enable relay. I have already bypassed the VATS so I knew that wasn't the problem. My relay was intermittant. I left it at my dealer and after 2 weeks and 100 start attempts it finally didn't start and they traced it to the starter enable relay. It's behind the DIC in the dash. Just on the oft chance, also make sure your battery cables are tight.

Ron
"Baldie88"

Mmmmmm..... You got me wondering now...... and I can't think if this happened before I installed it..but I put on one of those quick connect /quick release battery knobs...so when I do engine work or are cleaning my engine area , my battery won't drain.....could this be the culprit....I mean i still get power to the dash...just won't crank......is this a possibility??? Does this quick release cause any undo resistance ???

[Baldie88]

According to my mechanic that worked on my car, you can have power to your lights, etc. but still not crank if your cables are loose. You're not drawing much power for the lights but you need all 12 volts to start. I also had a quick disconnect but no longer use it. Got tired of having to reset the radio, etc. after disconnecting it.

Hope the disconnect is a quick answer to your problem.

Ron
"Baldie88"

[Louis Bartay]

Originally Posted by Edmond

Many automotive places offer free testing of the starter. You just have to take it to them and they'll test it. I would suggest doing that. If you do find that it is the starter that needs to be replaced, go with the Delco unit. Personally, I find that when it comes to replacing electrical parts, the OEM pieces are the best because they know their tolerances best.

If you do get a new starter, by all mean, get a package of shims. Even if the old starter didn't have shims, the new one might need it. Almost nothing is more of a waste of time than running back to the store for a pack of $3.00 shims...

I so agree with Edmond, as I just replaced the starter motor on my 96 LT4 that has the gear reduction design that has more torque than the old style on the LT1. My LT4 had a rubber gasket that was circled around the the nose of the starter that goes towards the flywheel. When I dropped the old starter there were NO shims from the factory. But when I replaced mine with a rebuilt one from O'Riely's with a lifetime warrenty it was too close to the flywheel and when I started the engine I could hear the starter gear touching my New Duelmass Flywheel. After takening in and out several times I removed the old rubber gasket and all is well now. I am ordering a new rubber gasket and a shim kit and trying this again. LOL