Time to see how well I can fix my boo-boo's.....

BarryK · 12-15-05, 09:51 AM

I needed to pull one more interior molding part out of the car that I hadn't done before because the newly painted pieces were now no longer going to match the finish.
This is the molding piece that runs directly over the windshield and also has the rear view mirror and the sunvisors screwed thru.

As I was removing the screws one of them turned about 1.5 turns than the head broke right off on me leaving the rest of the screw in the screw hole. It's sticking out just enough to try and grab it with something but not enough to get a really good grip on it. I tried vise grips but it's not enough to hold it securely. It seems like it will turn back IN, but it also seems to want to stop like it gets bound up turning OUT which of course is what I need. BTW, it's stuck in there because of rust as you can see in the pic.

As i'm sure you know that's a pretty small screw and it screws right into the top rail of the birdcage. Obviously I need to get that sucker out of there or else I can't re-attach the left side sunvisor back up.

I can't see trying to drill it out for two reasons: one, the remaining part of the screw is pretty small in diameter to try to get at it with a powered handdrill, and two, it's right by the windshield and one slip and i'll hit the windshield and probably crack it.

Bob (Stepinwolf) was kind enough (Thanks Bob!! ) to offer some excellent suggestions last night after I emailed him in a bit of a panic. Two of his three suggestions were somewhat feasible for me to try and attempt. (Bob, you know the last suggestion that involves cutting out that section and than afterwards re-welding it back in is way beyond MY abilities! )

Anyway, I now have a couple of ideas to work on to get that sucker out of there so now we get to see just how well I can handle working on the car when things don't go as smooth as planned.........

I know things like this are par for the course when working on old cars, but geez, who would have thunk something as simple as taking out a molding screw would cause such a hassle.
See, as always, leave it to me to make the simplest things into something complicated!

Jeff Farrar · 12-15-05, 10:51 AM

Not trying to make this a bigger job BUT you should think about addressing the rust issue now while its not too bad. It's only going to get worse.

Good Luck.

4WDVETTE · 12-15-05, 11:19 AM

Barry - If the hole to the left of the screw can give you access to the hidden part of the screw, maybe you could screw it all the way in and catch it in the back. Just a thought, you seemed to indicate that you could screw it in. Maybe a magnet to catch it.

Steve

BarryK · 12-15-05, 11:20 AM

Jeff

I know. That's been bugging me since I saw it with the molding piece off.
So much for a "quality body-off restoration" by the previous owner!

It doesn't surprise me though considering the similar quality I found so far on the other parts of the restoration. That's why I'm ending up doing so much work on the car since I bought it.

The problem is short of tearing the entire interior out of the car, plus removing the windshield, doors, ets ( not to mention actually lifting the body and removing all the body panels off the birdcage for full access) i see no relatively easy way of dealing with the existing rust. It's WAY beyond my current capabilites and no budget to pay to get it done right now so as much as I HATE having to leave it be as it is, It will have to get put off until a later time.
There is some flaking as you can see in the pic, but so far that rail is still nice and solid. I checked it and starting poking it with the tip if a screwdriver and it doesn't feel soft or anything so It will have to stay as it for the moment.

BarryK · 12-15-05, 11:25 AM

Steve, that was exactly one of Stepinwolf's suggestions.
As it's probably too long to go all the way in as it is he suggested using a cutting tool from a dremel to cut off the screw short as I can, than use the cutting tool to cut a slice in it to allow a screwdriver into the screw, screw it in until it falls into the rail.
that was probably going to be my first plan of attack as I should be able to borrow a dremel.
his second idea was to heat it up and it may come out. I would just have to be REAL careful with the heat so as not to damage either the headliner or the windshield gasket.

4WDVETTE · 12-15-05, 11:55 AM

Barry - I agree, but don't borrow a dremmel tool - go buy one. They aren't real expensive and it is a great tool to have on the shelf. Cut the groove first, then shorten the shaft that is protruding (it might be easier to cut off two halves instead of the whole shaft) and make sure you leave enough for the screw driver to bite on. Good luck.

Steve

1995 RedVette · 12-15-05, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryK

his second idea was to heat it up and it may come out. I would just have to be REAL careful with the heat so as not to damage either the headliner or the windshield gasket.

Just a thought.... you may want to try a soldering iron on the screw. The adjustable ones go up to 800 degrees F and you can localize the heat to the screw and allow conduction to do the work on the internal threads in the birdcage. Good Luck

Brett

Tampa Jerry · 12-15-05, 12:47 PM

Barry: Same thing happened to me on my 66. In fact, it was the same screw. As mentioned above, cut a slot in the screw stem. Go slowly. Soak the screw front and back with Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Do this a few times over the course of a few hours. Use a screw driver that is not worn out and try to back the screw out. If it will only go forward, than screw it down until it goes through with a small slotted screw driver. If no luck,grind down the slot you put in and use a small easy out. Be very careful when using the center punch to set up for the drill for the easyout. If you hit the screw too hard you may crack your windshield. It does not hurt to use a left hand drill/bit to start the hole for the easyout. That may even dislodge the screw. TAKE YOUR TIME. Good Luck. Jerry

JL66REDCPE · 12-15-05, 01:55 PM

Did you try using a very small (sizewise) pair of visegrips ??

paul67 · 12-15-05, 02:23 PM

Barry,
The wrench in the center might grab it coming straight at it (not at 90*) with the small tip.

BarryK · 12-15-05, 02:49 PM

Thanks all!
I'm sure one of Bob's suggestions is going to work out but all your additional insight and advice to utlilize his suggestions will prove to be very helpful.

1995, I like that idea of the soldering gun. I don't have a torch to heat this up so your idea may work.

John, no, the only size visegrips i have are like the bottom ones in Paul's pic.

JL66REDCPE · 12-15-05, 03:31 PM

That is probably why you cant grab it. How about taking some jb weld and trying to glue part of another small hex head bolt onto the broken piece. Also you might try getting it to turn with a small chisel.

BarryK · 12-15-05, 03:35 PM

John
JB weld is strong enough to hold a new head on it while you wrench it?
that's pretty strong!

JL66REDCPE · 12-15-05, 03:37 PM

Yes it should be - however you have to let it sit over night and try it. JB weld is very strong. I really think you shold be able to tap it with a small chisel and a hammer to get it turnning. I would also think the locking pliers in Pauls picture should also work.

BarryK · 12-15-05, 03:47 PM

Yes, as Paul pointed out the center locking grips would make a big difference I think compared to the ones I have.
i'm going to try the soldering gun idea first to see if it may work simply because I already have one and it's now snowing here so don't want to have to run to Sears just to buy another tool if I don't have to. If it doesn't work than tomorrow when I'm out I'll see about picking up a pair of the pointy nose vise grips