My winter heater project

mcditalia · 11-28-05, 10:31 AM

One of my winter projects that I wanted to tackle was fixing my heater/fan in the car. The fan never operated properly. I can't tell if it's working at all, I think the little air I do get out is being pushed through as the car moves, and I don't hear any sounds from the heater box. Doe's the car need to be running to operate the fan? My owners manual doesn't specify.

Checked something a simple as the fuse, but it's OK. Checked the connections and some seem a little corroded, mainly the ground. Since I still don't have a repair manual, I was wondering if someone can walk me through this. Besides no fan speed, the left hand switch that regulates the temp is only coming out half way as opposed to the right hand switch. Since the owners manual states that it can be "fully" pulled out for maximum heat, I'm assuming there's a problem there as well.

I'm thinking this can be a relatively easy project, or not?

67HEAVEN · 11-28-05, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcditalia

One of my winter projects that I wanted to tackle was fixing my heater/fan in the car. The fan never operated properly. I can't tell if it's working at all, I think the little air I do get out is being pushed through as the car moves, and I don't hear any sounds from the heater box. Doe's the car need to be running to operate the fan? My owners manual doesn't specify.

Checked something a simple as the fuse, but it's OK. Checked the connections and some seem a little corroded, mainly the ground. Since I still don't have a repair manual, I was wondering if someone can walk me through this. Besides no fan speed, the left hand switch that regulates the temp is only coming out half way as opposed to the right hand switch. Since the owners manual states that it can be "fully" pulled out for maximum heat, I'm assuming there's a problem there as well.

I'm thinking this can be a relatively easy project, or not?

Ignition key in the ON position is all that's required for the fan. Well, that and the fan switch too.

I would go under the hood and disconnect the fan power wire, then check it with a voltage tester to see if you're actually getting juice there. (Ignition and fan switches in the on position).

Follow the cable from the back of the TEMP pull-switch to the heater box. Then, have someone else actuate it while you observe the movement of the small lever it's attached to. Is it moving at all? If moving, does it appear to be moving completely enough? You could detach the cable from the heater box (don't lose the clip) and move the lever manually to see how it operates.

JohnZ · 11-28-05, 03:35 PM

You might also check the ground for the blower motor - it's the black wire that plugs on the spade terminal on the blower; it also grounds the wiper motor, and the bottom end of it goes under the head of the outboard starter mounting bolt. If that wire is broken or the connections are corroded, the blower won't work even if it has power.

mcditalia · 12-03-05, 04:37 PM

OK, finally got around to play in the garage today and I pulled the glove box out and disconnected the cable on the lever for the heater box. Trying to move it manually, it still appears to be stuck, not moving much and encountering resistance with a "clunk" inside the heater box as I'm doing this. What needs to be replaced/fixed here?

Haven't found my voltage tester yet, so didn't get around to test the motor or connections, but figured I'd update the Temp switch problem.

67HEAVEN · 12-03-05, 05:25 PM

Sounds like it's just seized up. There's not much to it inside the box. Can you gradually work it back and forth, and does it feel that it's loosening up? The clunk you hear is likely the trap door that allows or blocks hot air.

Worst case scenario is you removing the heater box from inside. It's a bit nasty due to the lack of room, and will require the removal of several other items.

Before I went that far, I'd spray some "free-up" liquid into the shaft hole and work it back and forth to see if it improves. I don't think I'd use WD-40 because you may smell it for months later.

If it must come out, you'll have to remove the radio side panels, probably the radio, etc. The bolts/nuts holding the box in place may be rusted and could break. Then, it gets more complicated because they come through from the engine side.

I'd try to free it first. Good luck.