Rear Bearing Rebuild- Dial up beware

[GTR1999]

Hi everyone,
I have been reporting on another site about rebuilding T arms and have been asked about it here in the past. I figure I'll post some pictures for those interested to see how I do the job or to see what's involved if you're thinking about doing it yourself. Let me know what you think and if you want me to do the same for the differential out of this car. It's a 69 BB coupe 4 spd 336 rear end. It's going to be rebuilt and I was asked to do the rear end, T arms, and 1/2 shafts.
Gary

Here what I got in- original arms. The Left was worked on and messed up by someone in the recent past. They wrecked the innder bearing as well as the spindle by not knowing how to work on corvette T arms.





Here are what the frt bushings looked like:




Drill out the flared sleeve that holds the bushings in place. You only have to remove the flared portion not drill through the whole sleeve:



With the sleeve out then I use a air chisel to pop them out. You can use a hand chisel too,just watch your hands!!



Stripped arms ready to paint prep



For these I wire brushed them,welded the ends to prevent separation,stripped to metal, ane used Eastwoods encapulator. Normally I use POR15 and like they way the POR sets up and finishes better-but you have to top coat it.



Arms painted, threads cleaned up on studs,sometimes you have to replace the studs,these were still good.


New Bushings installed



Parts ready to assemble



New plate,SS shoes and Hrdw




Set up tool and new Brg's shim spacer


Checking endplay to see what the shim size needs to be. I set the endplay to .001-.002" Do this test without grease only use spindle oil on the brg's


Select the closet shim to get where you want. I have never had one setup that a shim from the kits would get me to the range I want.



What I do to "dial them in" is to fit each shim to the size I want by using a surface grinder.



Here is the shimmed spindle installed.



Here is the special tool I use. I bored the ID to fit over the spindle without binding. I can stamp corvette on it and sell it for $100 like the catalog tools or you can go to any electrical supplier and some EMT!




Another tool- old rotor I cut a flat in to use when I torque the spindle nut to 100+ ft/lbs to align the cotter pin hole in the slotted nut.




Here is the cotter pin


I think I'm out of room to post anymore pic's. I counter sink the new rotor rivet holes and use 3/8-24 flat heads to bolt the rotor to the spindle and then check runout. Shim to get it under .002" runout.

Now go out there are rip into your arms-LOL!!
Gary

[67HEAVEN]

Nicely done. Thanks for the photos and description.

[GTR1999]

Thanks, I hope it helps.

Gary

[IH2LOSE]

Pictures always make it look simple dont they, Thanks for shairing.

[gmjunkie]

I'd say you Gott'r down pat!! junk!!

[GTR1999]

Finished Arm- runout dialed in to .001" Total Run Out. If you have any questions or want this done let me know.

Gary

[bill81vette]

this is a thread to bookmark for future reference!!!!!!!!!



bill.....

[norvalwilhelm]

You do a beautiful job Gary. Also thanks for taking the time to post the procedure.

[GTR1999]

Thanks Norval
Gary

[GTR1999]

Hi Guys,
I worked on the left tonight, this is the one bubba wrecked by beating on the new inner bearing and spindle.

Here's a little quiz for you students out there. Anyone who might have seen this on another post can't play.

See anything odd here?

Is that a crack in the hub? Liked the post thanks for the info.do more.

[gmjunkie]

Bearing not seated against shoulder,appears to have had water in it!! junk!!

[GTR1999]

No spindle isn't cracked and bearing is seated fully.

Answer: the seal is on backwards, the lip is pointing in the wrong direction. You can't see the lip but the seal is cupped and the open it should be against the bearing to keep the grease in.

Gary

[GTR1999]

Job Done, next up differential rebuild