What is the best double flaring tool

TLeBlanc · 10-10-05, 09:16 AM

I am converting my 64 to a dual master cylinder set up. I currently have a double flaring tool I purchased from O'Reilly Auto Parts. It is pretty heavy duty but seems to make a flare that is lopsided. I know the art of double flaring is all in the preparation, but I tried numerous times and no matter what I did, the flare still came out irregular. I guess I'm gonna have to part with some $$'s and get a good set up. Any input on what is on the market that will provide quality results ?

I have looked at the Mastercool Hydraulic Tool ($200), FlarMaster ($230), and one other one I can't remember the name of which goes for about $75.

vintagecorvette · 10-10-05, 09:22 AM

Have you tried applying a little oil on the tip of the flare tool as you flare the line.

oWEN

TLeBlanc · 10-10-05, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vintagecorvette

Have you tried applying a little oil on the tip of the flare tool as you flare the line.

oWEN

Hi Owen,

No I haven't, but I'll try it. I also have found, doing some websurfing, that it is better to cut the tubing with a dremel or something similar. A dull cutter will harden the area to be flared.

Kid_Again · 10-10-05, 06:13 PM

Yup, a dab of oil makes a huge difference.

JohnZ · 10-10-05, 07:47 PM

I like Imperial-Eastman - have used theirs for years, for 45* SAE flares, 37* AN flares, and euro bubble flares. I think Eastwood sells them now.

IH2LOSE · 10-10-05, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnZ

I like Imperial-Eastman - have used theirs for years, for 45* SAE flares, 37* AN flares, and euro bubble flares. I think Eastwood sells them now.

I secound impererial_eastman. Its a product sold thru the cooling industrys normal supply houses. You could probably get them thru Grainger.

But before you invest in a new flare block,

make sur you are using the one you have properly.

Cut your tubing with a tupeing cutter,If your cutting the pipe with a cheap or bad tuping cutter to could actually be crushing the end of the pipe and leaving a bur,or worse yet your actually using the cutter to make a deep score then snapping the pipe, Even with a cheap old auto parts store double flairing tool you can still make quaility,safe,non-leaking double flares.it all in the pipe preparation. I am using a Imperial eastman cutter that probably about 25 years old.and it still make a perfect cut every time.after I cut my pipe I first stroke the end of it with a file just to pull the edge off of it. I then debur the inside of the pipe with a de-burring tool ,or you could use the sharp end of a tiny file the peice that would be protected by the handle.Lastley I put the slightest chamfer on the outside of the pipe,slde my fitting on the pipe and then do my flare.

I have a mecanic freind who has been doing this forever,During the summer I was at his shop and he was strugiling with brake lines and leaking double flares. He said he pipe must be bad or his flare tool was broke. Too make a long story short his pipe cutter wheel had a nick in its cutting wheel and he was not dressing the pipe correctly once he was done cutting it

debur the pipe,then stick the proper amount of pipe above your flare block,normally you use the double flare adapter face to set how far up you keep the pipe above the flare block.(if your too high youll have a crooked buble (the part you make the double flare from) and it will be off center when you compress it down.

I always fill a soda cap or water cap with some brake fluid and dip the end of the tube in it before I flare it.

Most of all the problems I have seen with flairing comes from improper pipe prep,or bad cuts from a bad cutting wheel on a tupe cutter.

TLeBlanc · 10-10-05, 09:33 PM

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm gonna give them a try before spending some serious $$'s.

korvettekarl · 10-11-05, 04:42 PM

i bought a nice flaring tool from Blue Line? It's a quality tool that also does the quick disconnect lines. Paid $175.00. Has come in handy MANY times.

Kid_Again · 10-12-05, 03:40 PM

IH2LOSE....good advice but no matter what prep work I do on a piece of steel line, i could not get a quality flare until i added a dab of oil onto the face of the flaring tool....as we all know, i don't drop serious coin on tools but i did borrow what appeared to be better quality tools than what i had and i still relied on the oil...beats the crap out of me

i take your advice about reaming the cut ends, i have done that for years with match grade brass loaded for the .22-250 but the mystery of the flaring tool eludes me unless i use a little "assist"

cbernhardt · 10-13-05, 10:04 AM

How does the Imperial-Eastman universal tool work on stainless lines?

Anyone familiar with the Mastercool 71475 universal flaring tool? From the pictures and descriptions I have found it looks exactly like the one Eastwood sells.

Charles

TLeBlanc · 10-26-05, 08:24 AM

Thought I'd make one last post on this subject. I finally managed to get the job done using a Ridgid Flare Tool purchased at Home Depot using the double flare adapter from the other tool I had purchased. It took many practice flares before achieveing success.

I liked the other tool, but just could not get a decent flare out of it. One thing I found out in all the trial and errors was this first tool (purchased from O'Reilly Auto Parts) actually had a defect. If you clamped in a piece of 3/16" tubing with equal lengths on both sides (abour 8" or so) it was easy to see the hole was actually offset by several degrees. That explained why it was consistently offsetting the flare the same direction each time. Meant to take a picture before I returned it for a refund but did not get around to it.

IH2LOSE · 10-26-05, 07:48 PM

Thank you for shairing this information. So the end result was a bad flair block? too bad all problems are not so easey to fix.

If we could only have a dollar for each of the miserable hours we lost with defective or sub par material we would all probably be rich

TLeBlanc · 10-26-05, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IH2LOSE

Thank you for shairing this information. So the end result was a bad flair block? too bad all problems are not so easey to fix.

If we could only have a dollar for each of the miserable hours we lost with defective or sub par material we would all probably be rich

Yep !