Air Conditioning kits...?

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 03:20 PM

Okay, now all my friends tell me to just go down to autozone and get the kits that have the oil and like three cans of the 134, and it will work fine. Now I hear a lot of people doing many different things, I started talking about this in my other thread, but figured I should make a thread dedicated to it. Suggestions? It is really hot here, and It would be nice to not have to drive the winter beater just for the AC. Thanks guys.

JonM · 06-29-05, 03:28 PM

This is what you can get at your local AZ

AC LINK

It includes HOW TO's...even has Videos

c4cruiser · 06-29-05, 03:37 PM

Have it done properly by a reputable shop that does A/C work. Releasing R12 refrigerant into the atmosphere is dangerous if you don't know a lot about automotive A/C systems and it's a violation of federal and state laws. R12 can be recycled and the shop will recover it as part of the vacuum operation and send it off for recycling.

R12 and R-134a are not compatible and any trace of R12 left in the system will cause problems. The oil needed in the system is also different. If you want a trouble free system and R-134a is really what you want to use, then have it done. Otherwise just have the system checked and recharged with R12.

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonM

This is what you can get at your local AZ

AC LINK

It includes HOW TO's...even has Videos

Is this really safe to use? I don't suspect much to be in there, because it blows hot, it is like having another heater in the car. If that stuff will work ill go get it right now

Billybeau1 · 06-29-05, 03:44 PM

I agree buddy. Some things are better left to the professionals. This is one of them. If you don't have a working knowledge of HVAC, you'll just be throwing your money away, not to mention you may damage something in the system that is currently good.

JimVette · 06-29-05, 03:50 PM

Years back I converted an '87 from R12 to R134. After 5 years when it headed into the sunset it was still pumping out cold air. The compressor had seized up so I converted it. You'll need a to change nearly everything in the system and purge it. To do it right take it to a shop where they have the right equipment it will last longer. I had access to a shop so it was less costly. With the cost for R12 it would pay to convert it, long term.

1995 RedVette · 06-29-05, 04:29 PM

I have used the product in your link on several occasions with good success. (Farm truck, town car, old S10 etc) The only time I had a problem with it was with my Grandpa Town Car. He had a signifigant leak and the cooling would only last a couple of weeks. After we replaced the leaking hard line all has been well. You must by the product made for r12/134A systems. The refrigerant is similar, however, the emulsified lubricant is different. The R12/134A recharge sets use an ester oil, that is compatible and inert with the existing lubricant in your R12 system. At worst, if it doesn't solve the problem, you can if looked at by a professional.

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 04:34 PM

Will I hurt anything if I get the kit and do it that way? I definetly dont want to ruin anything

Billybeau1 · 06-29-05, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettefan87

Will I hurt anything if I get the kit and do it that way? I definetly dont want to ruin anything

Justin, Probably not. However I'd hate to see you waste your hard earned money on something that may not work. You have too many unknowns. Is there a major leak in the system, is the compressor O.K., does the condensor have a whole in it? If the system has been exposed to moisture, it must be evacuated with a vacumn pump to remove all the moisture before new freon is charged into the system. You may try it and it may work...but for how long. Again I would find a reputable serviceman and get an estimate on how much to do it right.

Billy

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybeau1

Justin, Probably not. However I'd hate to see you waste your hard earned money on something that may not work. You have too many unknowns. Is there a major leak in the system, is the compressor O.K., does the condensor have a whole in it? If the system has been exposed to moisture, it must be evacuated with a vacumn pump to remove all the moisture before new freon is charged into the system. You may try it and it may work...but for how long. Again I would find a reputable serviceman and get an estimate on how much to do it right.

Billy

As much as I would like to do that, for one I don't have the money for that. And second I really hate shops touching my car. I have a feeling a shop will really wack me over with charging to have this fixed.

Billybeau1 · 06-29-05, 05:30 PM

Yeh, I know what you mean. There are some rip off artists out there. Ask around. Someone there has to have an honest reputation. Most good guys will let you watch. Good luck with whatever you decide and keep us posted.

BTW - Congrats on the new job

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybeau1

BTW - Congrats on the new job

Thanks, hopefully I will not mess up to bad, I am still reading a ton on how to do some stuff, but hopefully I will get the knack of it. If I do infact mess up on something don't be afraid to yell at me

.

Billybeau1 · 06-29-05, 05:37 PM

You'll do fine my friend

C4Tom · 06-29-05, 06:40 PM

My personal philosophy: If money is a factor... do it as cheap as possible. If it doesn't fix it or fix it for long, you'll need to spend the money later anyway.

When I read your post I think you misunderstand something about A/C. The 'oil' you may be talking about... there IS oil in the system, it's a lubricant for the compressor. It's freon that makes the 'cold'. It's what the system needs to be charged with.

You should check other things first:
1. Is the compressor clutch engaging(will not if system is low) or turning freely?
2. Electrical connection to clutch good?
3. Any lines leaking? (oil visible)
4. All fuzes good?
5. Check your condenser coil for holes or leaks.
6. Check vacuum lines are working. Is it switching between heater core and cooling coil?
7. There is a low pressure switch on the system that will not allow the clutch to engage if low freon charge. I did jumper this switch on an '86 Z28 I use to own to test that it wasn't the compressor.

If that all checks out... try the recharge kit.

Vettefan87 · 06-29-05, 06:49 PM

Yes, but in the kits I have seen you get a big can of oil or something else (it looks like two regular cans of 134 stacked on top of each other). Then you add like two to three cans of 134.