Code 32

jiangtao · 05-27-05, 11:28 PM

I am getting a code 32. I replaced the EGR switch about 10 months ago. Now it seems that when the weather is 80+ degrees outside it will give me an SES after highway driving. I am also having really hard starts and when I get the car going it doesn't have that "rumble" like it did a few months ago. In fact I can be in drive{not OD} and be doing about 2600 RPMs and the engine is very quiet. When I am in OD doing 70 MPH you can't even hear the engine/mufflers. I don't think it is the injectors as the car set for 2 days and started right up. I do notice the hard starts when the car is still warm and has been off after 15 mins or more. {example: today the car set for over 6 hours and I had a hard start, the coolant reading when I started the car was 106,, oil 0} What in the Hell could it be? It is getting worse and worse. My Vette is an '86 with 92k on the clock. Thanks in advance!

Buttercup · 05-28-05, 09:33 AM

You might want to check the convertor and when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

jiangtao · 05-28-05, 10:11 AM

I changed the fuel filter about 4 months ago. I don't think I mentioned it, but I can smell a pretty heavy gas smell when I decelerate. It isn't like the smell when you are at the gas pump, but instead a kind of stale gas smell.

vette-dude · 05-28-05, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiangtao

I changed the fuel filter about 4 months ago. I don't think I mentioned it, but I can smell a pretty heavy gas smell when I decelerate. It isn't like the smell when you are at the gas pump, but instead a kind of stale gas smell.

If you find the problem please post the fix!! I have been fighting this Code 32 problem for about 6 mopnths and still no answer. So far I have replaced, 02 sensor, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, checked all sensors and TPS and IAC setting. Ran two bottles of Seafoam through the gas and it still will set a code 32 first thing in the morning when the temp hits 180 degrees or so. If I let it just idle in the garage and it warms up to over 180 degrees, it will not set the code while idling. If I let the car completely warm up at idle in the garage and then start driving and the temp gage goes down to below the approximate 180 degree mark, the SES light (code 32) comes on. I beginning to think that the thermostat may be too cold for this motor (maybe miss installed by last owner) and what is the cooler temperature coolant from the radiator is introduced to the motor and it drops the temp to 160 or so and the sensors, like the 02 sensor, already in warmed up operational mode, sends a closed loop signal but the computer has returned to open loop and the EGR system goes bannanas thus setting the code 32. If I pull over and let the temp climb over the 180 degree mark and then shut the motor off and restart the light stay out till the temp gage drops again. This whole mess seems to be temp related. Sound like you mnay have the same type problem. Can anyone out there help us??

Thanks.

Randy

PS: I have done a search numerous times for answers but nothing suggested thus far has nailed this down.

grapeknutz · 05-28-05, 11:11 AM

I had the same problem with the smell of gas vapors, it turned out to be the canister purge valve was going bad.

vette-dude · 05-28-05, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grapeknutz

I had the same problem with the smell of gas vapors, it turned out to be the canister purge valve was going bad.

How did you discover/troubleshoot that? I don't have any raw gas smell but I haven't checked that.

Randy

vette-dude · 05-28-05, 11:55 AM

Thanx. I beginning to think it is both of these items also. Is there any good way to check the convertor?? It don't smell like rotten eggs but that doesn't always happen. Car has 76K on it.

Randy

PS again I forgot this item. Every now and then I get a burble in the exhaust, like a small hitch in the motor. Maybe a misfired injector?? Also my apologies for the hijack but thought the problem is relevant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmjunkie

I'd ck cat. conv. and thermostat!! Theas car's are Cleaner Burning at 192deg. or 195 deg.!! Thus pluging conv. before it's time!! I think ya got a Potato up yer Butt!! Check your Converter!! The Longer you drive it the worse it will get!!

gmjunkie!!

vette-dude · 05-28-05, 12:41 PM

Thanx and may take you up on the phone call when I decide what to tackle first.

Randy

grapeknutz · 05-28-05, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vette-dude

How did you discover/troubleshoot that? I don't have any raw gas smell but I haven't checked that.

Randy

It had a heavy raw gas smell and a few days later a SES code which was a quad driver code emerged (26)

vette-dude · 05-28-05, 12:43 PM

Thanx. I don't have that code number but it is good info to know for the future. Appreciate the response.

Randy

jiangtao · 05-29-05, 09:26 PM

Thanks alot for the help. I am going to check the cats before I do anything else. In fact I was getting ready to eliminate the pre cats and put a high flow converter on it. Anyone already have one on theirs? What is a good brand? Thanks again.

vette-dude · 05-31-05, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiangtao

Thanks alot for the help. I am going to check the cats before I do anything else. In fact I was getting ready to eliminate the pre cats and put a high flow converter on it. Anyone already have one on theirs? What is a good brand? Thanks again.

Okay, progress so far. Removed and checked t-stat. It is a 195 degree and the on the stove test showed it was doing what it was suppose to. Used my mechanic neighbors system analyzer again and checked the EGR solenoid and the TPS and IAC. All checked good. 25 ohms resistance on the EGR solenoid and the wave pattern was correct. TPS and IAC set correctly and functionally according to the tests results. CATS seem to be okay but as GMjunkie said and everyone agrees this test may or may not be completely accurate. NO SMELL of ROTTEN EGGS so am going to assume this part of the system is okay for now. Have a little raw gas smell (occasionally) and still have the burble at idle and up to 2000 RPM (not in gear just sitting static in the garage). Now I am beginning to think that I have a bad injector which is occasionally dumping raw gas into a cylinder and the 02 sensor can not adjust the mixture which trips the Code 32. Is that possible?? Someone said on another thread that if the SES shows code 32 it is the solenoid if it comes on when you start the car and the EGR valve if it comes on after about 20 minutes of driving. Maybe I have a bad EGR valve itself as mine comes on after driving. Anybody know for sure as I just am about out of options.

Randy

vette-dude · 05-31-05, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmjunkie

Take EGR off and see if it's got Chunks of Carbon in it!!

gmjunkie!!

That's probably the next logical step. Thanks
Randy

vette-dude · 06-15-05, 06:57 AM

Well finally took the EGR valve off and it is bad. Ordered a new one through NAPA and it is one of those universal, one size fits all (except for my vette) type. Will be taking it back as the nipple is the wrong diameter, faces the wrong way, and sticks up too high and will hit the bottom of the plenum. Ordered one from GM local dealer and it is suppose to be OEM. Will be in tomorrow and hope it is the right one. Also going to replace MAT sensor while I have the plenum off and the TB coolant hose. Cleaned up TB and am just waiting for EGR to arrive to put the whole thing back together. I will post the outcome.

Geez, I miss driving my vette. Been 4 days now waiting on parts and I am getting antsy not being able to put the top down on my truck!!!

Randy

PS: No carbon in the intake by the way.

vette-dude · 06-17-05, 06:41 AM

Houston, we have touchdown!!!! I finally got the correct EGR valve from Chevy and re-assembled the top end. No SES light so far. Car runs smoother and seems to have more Giddy-Up GO!! The only problem I encountered with the reassembly was installing the plenum. The new gskts were a tad thicker and the plenum did not want to go on in a manner that would let me align the bolts. Thought about loosening the runners at the manifold but two injectors hid the bolts for the attachment at the manifold. So, I decided to freeze the plenum!!

Put it in the chest freezer for about an hour, took it out and it more or less dropped into place and allowed me to line up everything and get the bolts started. Had to use an alignment punch a couple of times but got 'em all in. Put never seize on the threads and torqued 20 ft lbs. Also replaced the MAT sensor on the plenum while I had it off. Installed new TB coolant hose, refill radiator, made sure all connectors and other hoses were attached and fired it up. Drove to work today and it all seems to be working correctly. THANKS to all who gave advise and technical assistance. Jiangto, sorry for the hijack but hope some of this info helps you to get yours fixed. If you do replace the EGR valve don't bother trying to get it from any of the parts houses as the EGR valve they sell is a Universal type and you will have to modify alot of the vacuum lines to make it work. Get it from Chevy as it will be a direct replacement.

Now this Bud's for me!!

Randy