I need a trailing arm measurement

[magicv8]

Could someone please tell me the distance from the center of the spindle (hole) to the center of the frame anchor bolt (hole)?

I am checking a rear wheel alignment at home, and I need to know how much tire movement (toe in) occurs when shims are moved at the anchor bolt.

[IH2LOSE]

Originally Posted by magicv8

Could someone please tell me the distance from the center of the spindle (hole) to the center of the frame anchor bolt (hole)?

I am checking a rear wheel alignment at home, and I need to know how much tire movement (toe in) occurs when shims are moved at the anchor bolt.

Magic let me know what you need I have the 66 up on the lift now and I also have an extra set of trailing arms on a shelf in the garage.

Larry

[magicv8]

Originally Posted by IH2LOSE

Magic let me know what you need I have the 66 up on the lift now and I also have an extra set of trailing arms on a shelf in the garage.

Larry

I have one person tell me the distance from the center of the pivot bolt to the center of the spindle is 17.75, and a second person said it was 17.375.

Can you tell me which it is??

[IH2LOSE]

Magic I am away until tuesday night I will post it then

[magicv8]

Larry - I used the dimensions I had, and I aligned the rear end to .0675 toe in on the first pass, with the thrust angle 1.1degree left. I am undecided on whether to correct the thrust angle to zero by moving .095inch of shims from right to left on both arms. If I do, the car is "correct", but will change lanes to the left when I power shift. I am thinking about giving up straight line rubber in all four gears - in favor of "correct" alignment.

PS My alignment using chalk lines on the garage floor trumped 2 laser alignment machines. The shim jockey that set my rear wheels toed out with a laser machine also smashed 2 shims and barely hooked the RH shim pack with the cotter key (which he also bent like a wish bone). It's a shame. All that expensive equipment at his disposal and he installs shims incorrectly using a hammer. I took out all the shims - touched them up with a wire wheel and grinder and coated them with antisieze compound. I can tap them in with a small piece of wood now, and pop them out with a punch through the cotter pin hole.

[IH2LOSE]

Magic
I am home now and sorry I could not give you the information in time.


As for burning rubber my car kinda quats and the rear comes out to the right but it does not change lanes.(the rear just slides out to the right.Very predicable)

As for the alignment guy, Its a shame the real mecanics are disapeering and the industry is being left with un skilled parts changers.

You know I work in the Heat/Air conditioning/Electrical/Plumbing and Hearth industries.I work with the local trade schools for apprentice programs. I have met with the instructors and it seems they teach these guys what they need to test out of the school with passing grades,They are teaching them how to fill out employment aplications,They teach them what they should make in earning and what benifits they should be looking for from an employer,but they are not teaching them ho to diagnoise problems or how to use tools properly.

I think I may have found my calling when I retire.

[magicv8]

[quote=IH2LOSE]Magic
I am home now and sorry I could not give you the information in time.


As for burning rubber my car kinda quats and the rear comes out to the right but it does not change lanes.(the rear just slides out to the right.Very predicable)

QUOTE]

Hey - I'm still interested in a confirmation of the correct value 17.75 or 17.375 from trailing arm pivot bolt to center of spindle hole. The fact that the wheel alignment came out right the first time means the fractioal difference is small compared to the 17 inches.

Yeah - I wish my Chevy dealer would do 4 wheel alignments on c2 and c3 Corvettes - but he refuses the jobs - says he loses money on them and does not want to charge by the hour due to sticker shock.

I tap the shims home with a piece of aluminum. The guys at the alignment shop use big hammers. On top of that they dont set the tie rod ends with a tool for the gap - they use water pump pliers and vise grips. Pita cleaning and repainting the suspension.

[IH2LOSE]

I will post the measurements when I get home tonight.

[IH2LOSE]

Magic If I have measured correctly

the dimentions to the center of the holes are 17 11/32" (sorry i dont know how to convert to the measurement figures you are using







Let me know if you need more. I enlisted the help of my daughter (She is just learning to measure in 1/8" increments in school now so dont make fun of the tape measure its hers

[magicv8]

Hey thanks - I like the thumb ring too.

Well that puts 17.75 out of the running (It may have been a typo on 17.375). I'll guess the tolerances on the arm let the dimension lie between 17.344 and 17.375.

The rear end setup was easy, toe in done in one step. Camber and thrust angle set to zero in the second step.

It took three road tests to reset the tie rods for a straight steering wheel (I got it perfect the third time).

Thanks again for the help.