Detailing rookie, Help please!

[tomtom72]

Hi All, I need help! I have a 90 w/9400 miles, one owner, always garaged, black. I'm asking if I understand the correct proceedure from reading this section. Oh the car is still garaged & not a daily driver. Do I understand the sequence of steps correctly???
1) wash with car soap. 2) clay all hard & painted surfaces, don't do rubber & textured moldings with clay. 3) re-wash and examine with baggie. If smooth, enough clay. If not smooth then re-clay? 4) look for scratches &/or swirls. If present use least abrasive first then go up abrasive scale??? 5) If no scratches &/or swirls, I'm lucky & happy, I should use a polymer polish to protect paint?? 6) I then apply a carnuaba type wax to give protection to polish??? See this is where I get confused, after clay(is there a specific type?) I know I have to protect the paint, so use polish??? What do I protect the polish with, wax right?? Oh, previous owner used car wash soap & rain dance, he said car stayed in garage so he felt it was enough. I just didn't keep up with changes in car care tech to feel that I know what to do with this car. I never thought I would ever get another shot at owning a vette. Thanks for your help & sorry for long winded post. Tom I forgot I also want to know what to use on B/N chrome wheels?

[Aurora40]

Hey Tom,

Your list sounds pretty good. I would suggest you feel the paint by hand or with a baggie while you are claying. This way you can do extra on areas that need extra, and less on areas that need less. The whole car won't have a uniform layer of embedded/surface contaminants. You don't have to wash the car to feel it. The surface will still be clean after claying, you can carefully touch it.

I would suggest you do some kind of polish/cleaner step if it's been a while. This will remove light staining, oxidation, etc that is probably dulling the finish slightly. If you have swirls, then a swirl remover will perform a similar function. If no swirls, I'd suggest a chemical-type cleaner like Mothers or Meguiar's Step 1 products (or there are other products like this too).

A synthetic wax or polymer will provide protection. They generally are not polishes, but actually protectants. Zaino's "polish" name is a bit of a misnomer as it is actually a protectant. I suppose it qualifies for some definition of "polish" in that it makes the surface shinier. But in typical paint speak, a polish is something with corrective action.

You can use a carnauba wax over a polymer if you want, but you should give the polymer at least 24 hours to cure/set up properly. Or you can just use a carnauba after the polishing step if you prefer this type of product.

So I'd say do something along the lines of this:

1) Wash with car wash
2) Clay
3a) If swirls, use a swirl remover, i.e. an abrasive polish
3b) If no swirls, use a cleaner, i.e. a chemical polish
4) Protect your car with a synthetic or carnauba wax

Note that after step 3, if you intend to apply Zaino, they advise to wash the car first. So I would suggest you wash the car with Z7 wash after step 3a or 3b. There would be no need for Dawn. Regular car wash will easily strip away any polishing oils left behind on the paint. There will be no wax to remove as your 3a/b step would make short work of them (and clay would probably remove a lot/all of it too). Hope that helps.

[Aurora40]

I'm not sure what B/N means in relation to chrome. But for regular chrome wheels, I'd suggest using a chrome polish. They will typically have protection in them as well as cleaning it.

[tomtom72]

Hi Aurora, Thanks for your help!

Thanks for defining polish. I was big time confused by the "polish" name attached to various prods. I mean I am not saying anything against any Mfg., rather my lack of knowledge was confusing me! I think I get it now.
1) wash 2) clay till smooth 3) cleaner for oxidation 3a) swirl & scratch cleaner if needed 4) apply some form of paint protectant 5) carnauba wax after protectant cures if desired 6) detail spray after washing to revive shine? or Calif. duster & detail spray to revive shine? 7) be happy & drive car!
Oh, sorry about B/N = brand new. I bought new wheels to save my OE tires & wheels intact for later. Don't ask why... I never had an unmolested vette! This one has the assembly line markings all over the chassis and suspension...I'm nuts, I know. The first vette I owned was an road race car I had to do a mech. resto on & this one is a complete car down to the spark plugs & wires. I don't want to ruin it! Thanks alot for your time & help, Tom

[Aurora40]

You can do the cleaner first and then a swirl remover, but a swirl remover will also remove oxidation and staining fairly well. So really you could do both or just one or the other.

I hear you on all those factory markings and such. I was the same way with the Aurora. It's still pretty factory, but those markings just can't contend with the driving environment...

[tomtom72]

Aurora40, Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! I figure what ever system(manufacturer) I use I'll just get both kinds of cleaners so if I need it I have it on hand. Truth be told the paint looks clear and slick and has some depth. I mean the reflections in it are almost mirror like, except for the orange peel. It looks to me like a factory paint job that has seen little use. There are no haze or scratches or swirls that I see now. I'm sure once I clay it, I will be better able to tell what the condition of the paint is. Thanks for helping me out on this, Tom.

Here's another little known tip......claybar the windshield. You'll be amazed. I did mine, an 88 with many years of wiper marks. I clayed it, followed with a good glass cleaner and you canNOT see any wiper marks.
Meguires has a 3 step kit that includes cleaner (step 1) a polish (step 2) and their yellow high tech wax(step 3) I like meguires because the bottles are numbered...

Len

[tomtom72]

Hi Len, Thank you for the tip. I was not aware of that until I started reading this section. Makes sense but I would never have thought of it on my own! So you like meguires stuff. I started looking around and it seems to me that which ever Mfg's system I use it will have to be mail order. I can't seem to find a complete system in any one store I've looked in. I kind of miss the old lacquer paints, on that stuff I sort of knew what to use. A little blue coral if it was bad and if not classic wax prods did it for my 72. This is a whole different chemical zoo to me! Thanks for sharing the knowledge, Tom.

[Remo]

Originally Posted by nyerngaII

Here's another little known tip......claybar the windshield. You'll be amazed. I did mine, an 88 with many years of wiper marks. I clayed it, followed with a good glass cleaner and you canNOT see any wiper marks.
Meguires has a 3 step kit that includes cleaner (step 1) a polish (step 2) and their yellow high tech wax(step 3) I like meguires because the bottles are numbered...

Len

I guess having the Meguires bottles numbered does eliminate any confusion. Particularly after you've consumed a few bottles yourself.

Remo

[Aurora40]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Hi Len, Thank you for the tip. I was not aware of that until I started reading this section. Makes sense but I would never have thought of it on my own! So you like meguires stuff. I started looking around and it seems to me that which ever Mfg's system I use it will have to be mail order. I can't seem to find a complete system in any one store I've looked in. I kind of miss the old lacquer paints, on that stuff I sort of knew what to use. A little blue coral if it was bad and if not classic wax prods did it for my 72. This is a whole different chemical zoo to me! Thanks for sharing the knowledge, Tom.

You should be able to find consumer line versions of these from Meguiar's or Mothers locally. Try K-Mart/Wal-Mart/Wally World or places like Advance Auto/Pep Boys or whatever your regional version of those is (O'Reilly, Kragen, or something like that).

One thing you might find is that the Step 1 in the Meguiar's line is pretty much a chemical cleaner. I think the Mothers is similar, though I haven't used it. They will probably not do as much for swirls. But they are good cleaners.

If you decide to order up products, you may want to consider the professional lines. There are many companies that make products in the categories you are looking to buy. You might just post up real quick which you are considering before you order so you don't accidentally get two products that do the same thing, or get products that do things other than what you think they do. There is some confusing terminology out there that can throw one for a loop.

[tomtom72]

Hi Guys, Maybe Remo is right and I should drink a few bottles before I start! Aurora you are right about the # & type of products! I am trying to find a clay like in the detail dude's post, I am not sure if any local body shop supply stores would sell to a non-trade person? I am also confused about how to make sure I get all the old wax off before I clay? Or does the clay take off the old wax also? The DDude says 3M adhesive remover, some say Dawn(I never used dish soap on any car I had); I'm not sure a ploisher-cleaner would remove old wax? I have settled on a choice of a synthetic polymer as a base + a carnauba top coat for looks and car wash soap + a detailer after to help keep the look inbetween taking it all off & starting again twice a yr? I'm not even sure if my idea of the regimen is correct? I was thinking of Klasse AIO after clay, then the Klasse sealant if it can be layered a few times for protection. Then using a pre-softened carnauba over the sealant to give the finish that soft deep look. Trouble is I don't even have an idea if my 'methode' makes sense. The only thing I bought so far is Zymol cleaner & Zymol protectant for use on chrome wheels.

Originally Posted by Remo

I guess having the Meguires bottles numbered does eliminate any confusion. Particularly after you've consumed a few bottles yourself.

Remo

Well at least you didn't say it was because of age Remo...........or should I wait for your girlfriend to chime in????

No problem Tom......I've forgotten what auto stores there were in NY but I find mine at auto zone down here.

Len

[Aurora40]

Klasse AIO is a great cleaner product. It also is mainly chemical in nature. Klasse SG does a decent job of hiding/minimizing swirls. It's a great product though it can be finicky to use.

There are really only two suppliers of automotive clay out there. You can pick up a Mothers clay kit and get the same exact clay that Zaino sells, or get a Clay Magic kit or Meguiar's kit and get Clay Magic clay (they are both the same clay, just different lubes and packaging and bar size). A trade shop should sell you a bar of clay. You don't need to remove wax, etc before claying. The clay will work just fine. Have you waxed the car recently? Maybe if it were a very fresh coat it might affect the clay, but I doubt you'll have any problems.

I personally would never ever use 3M adhesive, tar, and wax remover on my whole car. It is pretty aggressive and is not good for plastics on the car. It also isn't great for paint, though it's ok in limited use like removing tar (it's better for the paint than the tar is). I've noticed it tends to dull the finish when used aggressively on tar. It may not dull it noticeably when you use it quickly over the whole car, but it obviously has the potential, and why take the chance.

Wash, clay, Klasse AIO, Klasse SG will definitely give you a better looking car. You may still have issues like swirls to address after, but it's still a good regimine.

[tomtom72]

Hi Aurora, Man I owe you a lot for letting me pick your brain! Okay, read you 5X5 on the 3M GPAR. I'll refrain cause the car has almost no wax left on it, previous owner only used rain dance. My thought train on the Klasse was since auto paint now is a catalyzed polymer then an emulsion of polymer cleaner is okay to use. I had no idea K was tempermental to work with. I was a bit intimidated by the proceedures for Zaino, so I figured something like K would be less complicated. I was trying to stay within a single product line for the cleaning and protection step. Thanks for the head's up on the clay cause now I know just where to go for it. I think I'm going to go to back to the wax web sites I have indexed and do more reading and do more reading of the old posts in this section. Man I'm buying the drinks if we ever cross trails. Thank you for being generous with your knowledge! Tom

[Aurora40]

Sure thing Tom. I learned a lot from people sharing, it's the least I can do. Klasse SG isn't too bad, but if you apply it thick it can be tough to buff off. AIO is a breeze to use. I've heard that wiping SG on, then wiping it right off makes it much easier, instead of letting it sit before buffing. I've never tried that, I just try to put it on thin. I've noticed water out of body seams will make it very hard to buff too.

If you are interested, AutoGlym Super Resin Polish is a lot like AIO in result, i.e. a chemical cleaner with an acrylic protectant. It's pretty different, though. It's a thick cream while AIO is very runny. AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection is not unlike SG, though it's very very watery and I think it is a bit glossier. AutoGlym is very easy to use. But Klasse is certainly a good choice too. Just a thought.

One product I recommend a lot to co-workers and family, though don't use a whole lot myself is Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Protectant. It's a polymer product that's very easy to use, and has a well rounded appearance. There is also a Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner that is an excellent chemical cleaner for hand use. Both are being discontinued by Meguiar's due to CA 2005 regulations, so you may be able to get them online on a clearance-type sale. Also just a thought, you certainly don't have to go with them. I recommend them because they are very easy to use and produce good results.

Wash, clay, and Klasse is hard to argue with, though.