C1 Body Drop Advice

studiog · 01-07-05, 07:18 PM

I know I asked this once before but if you'll indulge me one more time now that I am really ready to drop the body. I was going to drop then paint, I wound up painting then dropping. Any general or specific advice would be appreciated. I do have my AIM (manual) at my side but AIM's don't live in the real world. How hard is it to add and subtract shims after the body is on and should I start with one shim at each point? I did not (stupid me) keep track of how many were at each point when I disassembled the car. I keep thinking I am going to forget to attach something to the frame before the drop but I don't think there is anything else once the complete drive train and suspension is in. Besides I don't have allot of parts left anymore. One more thing. Can I install the steering column after the body is back on? I think I took if out before I removed the body but I also remember it being a bit of a task. Thanks as usual for any help.

61 Silver · 01-07-05, 08:46 PM

Hi! studiog

I had very little trouble with the drop, but I was using a two-post lift and I could go real slow and adjust as we dropped. I used some very large punches to align body holes to frame mounting holes. I kept an eye on front radiator support mount and adjusted through the drop. The shifter was the only other area that gave me a small problem during the drop. I had to readjust the body shims do to the repairs to the rear right fiberglass body mount support. I used a flat bar and lifted the body at the mounting points and slid the shims in or removed. I continued to add and remove shims until I was happy with all the bodylines and gaps. With the lift I could lower the car and place all of the cars weight on the floor. Lift and adjust then lower and view results.

Ray

IH2LOSE · 01-07-05, 08:59 PM

Besides I don't have allot of parts left anymore.

hoo boy your not going to live this one down,This is the quote the year so far

Larry Shermak · 01-07-05, 11:06 PM

Studio- Lookin' good, I'm seeing RED!!!
Anyway, I saw a good article in the August 2004 Corvette Enthuiast Mag. by Noland Adams about determining how many shims to use.
In a nutshell, use equal heights of shims on the frame around the passenger compartment. (Tape down with masking tape) Then put bolts in finger tight.
If there are any spaces or loose shims, add shims. Get all these even and the bolts just snug so the frame and body contact is even. Now tighten all passenger mounts in sequence.
Next, go to mount under the radiator to get the proper spacing look at the vertical door gap. When both gaps in front of the doors are parallel, tighten down the front mount. Door hinges may need to get shimmed as well.
Now to adjust the rear gap of the door, adjust the shims at each side of the rear of the frame.
If you can get this article it's pretty good. It caught my eye because like you I lost track of the # of shims at each point. Good Luck

studiog · 01-07-05, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IH2LOSE

Besides I don't have allot of parts left anymore.

hoo boy your not going to live this one down,This is the quote the year so far

Larry, Last year I had the entire car disassembled. I had parts hidden everywhere. In the garage , in the shed, in the basement, in the backyard, in closets, at work, in my car, in the attic. My 17 year old daughter jokingly said there were Corvette parts in every room of the house. Now I have most everything left back in the garage and a few pieces in the basement. Every week I have more and more back on the car. So when I run out of parts the car should be done.

studiog · 01-07-05, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Shermak

Studio- Lookin' good, I'm seeing RED!!!
Anyway, I saw a good article in the August 2004 Corvette Enthuiast Mag. by Noland Adams about determining how many shims to use.
In a nutshell, use equal heights of shims on the frame around the passenger compartment. (Tape down with masking tape) Then put bolts in finger tight.
If there are any spaces or loose shims, add shims. Get all these even and the bolts just snug so the frame and body contact is even. Now tighten all passenger mounts in sequence.
Next, go to mount under the radiator to get the proper spacing look at the vertical door gap. When both gaps in front of the doors are parallel, tighten down the front mount. Door hinges may need to get shimmed as well.
Now to adjust the rear gap of the door, adjust the shims at each side of the rear of the frame.
If you can get this article it's pretty good. It caught my eye because like you I lost track of the # of shims at each point. Good Luck

Thanks Larry, Very helpful. I should have that issue here somewhere. I'll check it out.

studiog · 01-07-05, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 61 Silver

Hi! studiog

I had very little trouble with the drop, but I was using a two-post lift and I could go real slow and adjust as we dropped. I used some very large punches to align body holes to frame mounting holes. I kept an eye on front radiator support mount and adjusted through the drop. The shifter was the only other area that gave me a small problem during the drop. I had to readjust the body shims do to the repairs to the rear right fiberglass body mount support. I used a flat bar and lifted the body at the mounting points and slid the shims in or removed. I continued to add and remove shims until I was happy with all the bodylines and gaps. With the lift I could lower the car and place all of the cars weight on the floor. Lift and adjust then lower and view results.

Ray

Hey Ray, what do you mean about being happy with the body lines?

61 Silver · 01-08-05, 08:28 AM

Hi!

The term bodylines might not have been the correct term, but here is what I was referring to: My 61 had to have the rear left fiberglass mount rebuilt. When I first purchased the car and it was parked on level ground you could notice that the left side sat lower than the right. Research on this and other Corvette sites provided that this was common problem with some Corvettes (usually springs). With the combination of rebuilt mount, new spring liners, bushings and the correct shimming the back is now level. (Equal vertical distance to like points) I found that trunk lid not setting correctly on the weather stripping could be adjusted by adding or subtracting shims at different points. The previous owner replaced a front left fender clip and adjusted the ride height using a different front spring on the left than the right. I cut loose the front fender, built a wood fixture to match the right fender profile and fastened it to the left fender. I had to pull the fender approx. 1/2-inch front to back and I raised the front of the fender about the same. The shimming at the front is on center/line (C/L) radiator support and hard to adjust so that the lights were the same vertical distance from the floor. By playing with other shim points I could adjust the front headlight points up and down and now have it very close. The adjustment of all factors, ride height, gaps and even fit was a challenge, but it was fun. Studiog, be careful if using a flat bar to raise body for adding or subtracting shims. I got in a groove and things were going great, bodylines (for the lack of a better term) and gaps were looking good until the bar slipped and caused a nice gash above my right eye. I now know what they mean by blood and sweat and I feel a part of me is now in the car!

Ray

IH2LOSE · 01-08-05, 09:12 AM

My body has been on and off the frame sevral times.I am shocked at the amount of flex the body has with out the shims in it.(the entire nose especally)

Couple of things have to happen.

One is you have to have the frame level to start working.We are trying to have a level car when complete,and also the hood and deck lid and the door gaps nice,we also want to have doors that open and close nicely.

This is the only process of my project I am nervous about because I feel the gaps and levelness of a car shows the quaility of the restoration.

What makes me say WOW when I see a car is

Fit and Finish,
Level of detail.

Good luck.For sure when I put the body back on the frame I will be using "LOW STICK" masking tape as a base then 1/8" foam tape on top of it, in all of my possible pinch points (door gaps,rear deck lid,) I also with be doing this when I am installing my bumpers and door stainless.

Good Luck

studiog · 01-08-05, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 61 Silver

Hi!

The term bodylines might not have been the correct term, but here is what I was referring to: My 61 had to have the rear left fiberglass mount rebuilt. When I first purchased the car and it was parked on level ground you could notice that the left side sat lower than the right. Research on this and other Corvette sites provided that this was common problem with some Corvettes (usually springs). With the combination of rebuilt mount, new spring liners, bushings and the correct shimming the back is now level. (Equal vertical distance to like points) I found that trunk lid not setting correctly on the weather stripping could be adjusted by adding or subtracting shims at different points. The previous owner replaced a front left fender clip and adjusted the ride height using a different front spring on the left than the right. I cut loose the front fender, built a wood fixture to match the right fender profile and fastened it to the left fender. I had to pull the fender approx. 1/2-inch front to back and I raised the front of the fender about the same. The shimming at the front is on center/line (C/L) radiator support and hard to adjust so that the lights were the same vertical distance from the floor. By playing with other shim points I could adjust the front headlight points up and down and now have it very close. The adjustment of all factors, ride height, gaps and even fit was a challenge, but it was fun. Studiog, be careful if using a flat bar to raise body for adding or subtracting shims. I got in a groove and things were going great, bodylines (for the lack of a better term) and gaps were looking good until the bar slipped and caused a nice gash above my right eye. I now know what they mean by blood and sweat and I feel a part of me is now in the car!

Ray

Thanks Ray, now I see what you are talking about.

studiog · 01-08-05, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IH2LOSE

My body has been on and off the frame sevral times.I am shocked at the amount of flex the body has with out the shims in it.(the entire nose especally)

Couple of things have to happen.

One is you have to have the frame level to start working.We are trying to have a level car when complete,and also the hood and deck lid and the door gaps nice,we also want to have doors that open and close nicely.

This is the only process of my project I am nervous about because I feel the gaps and levelness of a car shows the quaility of the restoration.

What makes me say WOW when I see a car is

Fit and Finish,
Level of detail.

Good luck.For sure when I put the body back on the frame I will be using "LOW STICK" masking tape as a base then 1/8" foam tape on top of it, in all of my possible pinch points (door gaps,rear deck lid,) I also with be doing this when I am installing my bumpers and door stainless.

Good Luck

Good points Larry. Starting with a level frame on level ground makes perfect sense.