Re-paint Help!

61 Silver · 12-28-04, 03:56 PM

I had a problem with the Glen Green lacquer paint on the 65. I used PPG products. I started with their MX241 Gray Polyester Primer filler. Two coats, block sanding between coats. I then applied DZ3 primer, sanded, and applied DZ/7 as a guide coat (red and gray). I sanded the final primer with 800grit. I then had a friend (owns a body shop) spray PPG Glen Green Lacquer in his booth.

After about a month, I started to see a craze (look like water spots) telegraphing through the lacquer. I wet sanded the entire car a second time with 1500G paper and buffed the body to a shine, look awesome. Again after a few weeks and a couple cruses in the sun, the paint started to craze again. I buffed again for the third time, only to have a few rub through spots and the craze came through again. The 65 was treated exactly the same way as the 1961 Sateen Silver and all paints and primers were the same, from the same vendor. The only part of the process that was different was the painter. It has been 6 Months with the 1961 and no problems.

The Paint has been striped from the 65 and I plan on using PPG Base-Clear this time. What would be the best process and what products should be used to insure that the body is sealed correctly prior to primer this time? I don't mind the learning curve, but once is enough!

Any ideas John McGraw, your advice is always welcome.

Thanks for any help!

Ray

Dave65 · 12-28-04, 04:22 PM

Sorry to hear about your problem. I had to paint mine twice due to molting (sp?). It is not fun. I am also not a paint expert but the MX241 is not something that PPG shows as a compatible undercoat (see link below).

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/d...33_DZ3_DZ7.pdf

Dave

IH2LOSE · 12-28-04, 09:44 PM

Sounds like some solvent is coming out of the glass(the sun will pull it out), are they pimple like blisters or just circles? I am truly sorry for your troubles,

But if you strip it I would suggest letting the fiberglass breath before you recoat it,
You may want to place a high quaility heat lamp in different sections of the car to vent/pull out what ever may be stuck in the glass,What type of a solvent did you use to wipe the car down prior to paint or priming.

61 Silver · 12-28-04, 10:06 PM

What I can't understand is that the 61 and the 65 were treated the same. The only major difference was that I did all the work on the 61 including the topcoat and I framed out the topcoat to a friend on the 65. I wasn't set up at the time to spray topcoat. I do know that he re-primed the car prior to the lacquer topcoat. The 61 still looks great. I washed down the car after stripping with Klean Strip fiberglass safe stripper with hot soapy water. I then wiped down the area that was stripped with a high quality lacquer thinner. The car sat for most of the winter after the paint was stripped while I was completing the bodywork.

The entire top surface of the car looked like a paisley printed shirt from the 60's. The marks looked just like irregular water spots.

Thanks for any help!

Ray

IH2LOSE · 12-28-04, 10:16 PM

The car sat for most of the winter after the paint was stripped while I was completing the bodywork.

Ray was it in a heated garage?

Do you belive the sun brought it out?

Can you show us a picture.

Is the car cleared?

studiog · 12-28-04, 10:19 PM

Hi Ray,
I'm sure John McGraw will have good advice for you, but have you considered single stage urethane? As you know I used this for the first time and got an excellent high gloss finish. I have yet to stand the test of time but a nice finish is fairly easily achived even for someone like me who has mostly shot lacquer. I think it is allot more forgiving with minor sand scratches and body work imperfections than lacquer is especially when used with a sealer underneath it. If it weren't for the dust nibs and some minor orange peel I probably wouldn't even wet sand it.

John Mcgraw · 12-28-04, 11:34 PM

Ray,

Sorry to hear about your troubles. It sounds like the solven penetrated too deep on the primer or finish coats, and reacted with the primer/surfacer. I have quit using DZ Lacquer primers entirely because of these types of problems. If you spray too wet or too close together, you can get deep penetration of solvents that will continue to plague you for a long time. My 60 had some sand-scratch swelling that I like to never got rid of. I would polish the car to perfection, and 3 months later, the sand scratches would reappear! It took over a year for the problem to go away. I now use either K36 or NCP271 for my primer/surfacer work. even under Lacquer! With NCP271, I use no other product other than the topcoat. I have had good success with both lacquer and urethane topcoats, with absolutely no sand scratch swelling under lacquer. I know many people who will seal NCP with DP90 before topcoating, but I never have found the need for it.

Regards, John McGraw

61 Silver · 12-30-04, 07:28 AM

Thanks John,

Your advice is always welcome! I should be ready for paint in a week or two.

Ray

61 Silver · 12-31-04, 11:56 AM

A picture is worth a thousand words!

Ray

studiog · 12-31-04, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 61 Silver

A picture is worth a thousand words!

Ray

Hey Ray,
What am I looking at? Have you sanded back to the gray primer?

61 Silver · 12-31-04, 02:11 PM

You are looking at the PPG polly-fill that was on top of the original GM red primer. I tried to block sand the lacquer off but found that it was a very tedious process and I would sand through the high spots and the lacquer would stay in the low spots. I completely stripped the entire exterior and will now block sand off the polly-fill. I plan on leaving the lacquer in the doorjambs. The person that painted it the first time is going to let me use his down draft booth with air make-up. I would have a hard time painting the car in my barn in January.

It is a warm day here in WNY so I am out to finish the roof on the new addition.

Have a Happy New Year!
Ray