Heater and Keyless Entry Question??

92BamaVette · 12-06-04, 05:17 PM

First thing is, my heater system is not getting very warm. The climate control operates fine. All the buttons work and vents change to the appropriate input. I have noticed that on hotter days the heater temp is hotter. The engine is still running at 200 degrees whether its a hot or cold day. Could it be the ambient temp sensor is sending a false signal? It takes the car 20 minutes just for the heater to get to room temp when set at 90 and will not get any hotter. I need more heat, winter is here. Also recently I had the BCM replaced, does that have any effect? Programming wise ?

2'nd question. Does a 1992 vette come with keyless entry? If it was an option how do I find out if mine has it or not?? Car did not come with a key fob.

I just bought this car wholesale. My first C4, nothing like my precious C3. I see that this car is a whole lot more complicated when it comes to diagnosis.

JEFNLSA · 12-06-04, 05:41 PM

1993 was the 1st year for the PKE (passive keyless entry) so I believe that your car just came w/ the power door locks. Don't quote me on that though...

Can't help ya w/ the heater problem.....sorry

Looks like you're also new to the CAC so WELCOME!!

jmccloud · 12-06-04, 07:07 PM

Welcome.

There are a lot of threads on poor heater performance, use the 'search' tab above to find them.
But to save time, the heater cores tend to get plugged up. Flushing with modest pressure water (forward flow then reverse flow then forward then reverse, many times) will usually clear the restriction. Don't put city water pressure on the core as it's only designed for 15-20 psi operation. Also, don't yank the hoses off of the core fittings, that usually breaks off the fittings.
Since the engine temp gets to 200, your thermostat isn't likely stuck open. But your ambient air sensor could be bad. Do you get good heat if you turn the temp control full up? If so, it's likely the ambient sensor (located on the passenger side, in front of the front tire, way up next to the radiator). If turning the temp adjust up full doesn't give good heat, flush the core.
Chevrolet sells a coolant antileak additive that really works. It's needed with cast iron block/aluminum head engines. But it tends to plug the heaters. I use it religiously and live with the heater core clean out every few years.
Hope this helps.

G Winter · 12-06-04, 08:11 PM

jimccloud, are you referring to the little plugs GM sells? or do they have another product that I am not aware of ?

92BamaVette · 12-06-04, 11:43 PM

Thankyou for the input, yes the system puts out very poor heat when it is turned up to full temperature on the ATC Panel. When put at 90 full temp, it blows only luke warm air. I will try yo flush it first. Do you have to put the antileak addative in after you flush the system?? Also, what exactly does the ambient temperature sensor do? THe outside temperature reading I get on the ATC panel is pretty accurate to the outside temerature.

jmccloud · 12-08-04, 08:20 PM

Yes, scav, I'm refering to the tablets (plugs). They come 6 to a package for about $7, each tablet being about the size of a $2 stack of quarters.
The number on the package is 1#3634621 Gr.8.800
The instructions say to add them to a full radiator but they won't fit. So I put them in (crushed using a plier) before the radiator is completely full. They're some kind of vegetable compound that will make you sneeze like pepper so don't breath the dust. GM has used them for decades.

The ambient air sensor tells the computer what the outside air temperature is. If you're getting accurate display of external temp, the ambient sensor is OK (unless the buggers used two sensors that year; I don't think they did).