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C4 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1984 - 1996 Corvettes.

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Old 12-06-04, 07:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default clutch problems

Need some help with a clutch problem. 1987 Vette sat for a couple of months, when I went start the car there didn't seem to be much cutch. As soon as I tried to put it in gear got the grinding. Shut it down and checked the level of the fluid, it was low. Filled the reservior but I'm not getting the clutch back. Let it sit for another week because of time constraints. When I tried to look at it over the weekend can't even get the key to unlock steering. Am I right to think the fact the clutch fluid is so low low it won't release it? What do I need to do to get the fluid back into the system? Any help to remedy the situation would be helpful. Thanks, John
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Old 12-06-04, 08:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You might have to bleed the slave cylender ,or make sure the throw out bearing is not stuck on the shaft do to surface rust.
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Old 12-06-04, 09:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd bleed the system, air would keep the clutch from moving.
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Old 12-06-04, 02:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You said the fluid was low after the car sat a while? Did you check under the car below the bellhousing area to check for evidence of fluid fleakage? Does the clutch pedal go all the way down to the floor with little or no resistance?
Sounds like maybe it's time to think about rebuilding the master and slave cylinders. Not that big or difficult of a job. If you do a search, there is at least one thread regarding cost and source(s) of kits available for rebuilding .
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Old 12-06-04, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If it's low on fluid, there is a leak. Bleeding wont help. It's not that bad to do. Just did mine last spring. Just make sure to use aftermarket master and or slave cylinders. GM has been having problems with theirs lately. Alot of people complaining about having to take back to GM for warantee. Don't want to do the job more than once. You can check for leaks by clutch pedal and visual on outside of master cylinder for obvious leaks, but chances are its the slave or hose. Not that bad of a job, couple hours. Bleeding it is best done with two people though I have done it on my own with a vacuum bleeder. Good luck.
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Old 12-07-04, 07:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default clutch

Thanks for the replys. The clutch does go the whole way to the floor with little or no resistance. If you pump it a few times it seems like it gets a little resistance. Not seeing any fluids under the car. I'll try bleeding the system for now and look into rebuilding the cylinder. I can not trun the ignition on. The key will not turn from the lock posistion. Does this have anything to do with the the clutch not working. Thought maybe the car figures its not in neutral so it won't allow the lock to release. I have no idea, or is the entirely a seperate problem?
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Old 12-07-04, 08:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Fluid Leak

Look for fluid leaking INSIDE the car, leaking down along the clutch pedal. I recently had to have my master cylinder done, and that is where the fluid was leaking. There was no external sign of leak - on the driveway, etc.

Bob
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Last edited by NC2Stay; 12-07-04 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Correct typo
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Old 12-07-04, 08:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
JJS
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I had the same symptoms in a Bronco II I once owned. It turned out to be a bad slave cylinder.
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Old 12-07-04, 09:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a problem with my '86 in that once it sits overnight, the clutch feels like it has bonded to the flywheel. I have to put a lot of foot preasure on the pedal for it to break loose. Then it works fine. I figured either the clutch is getting hot enough to bond to the flywheel or there is fluid leaking on the clutch disk. Haven't checked for leaks yet. This car was purchased to race and isn't a daily driver or weekend cruiser.
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Old 12-07-04, 11:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC2Stay
There was no external sign of leak - on the driveway, etc.

Bob
Not to mention, the system uses very little fluid so, unless it is a major leak, the chances of seeing signs of a leak on the driveway, etc are pretty slim.
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Old 12-07-04, 11:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The clutch issue shouldn't be related to the ingition key issue. You mentioned that you can "pump up" the pedal a bit with your foot and that is indiciatve of air in the system.

At this point it would be a good idea to suck out the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir (get a cheap turkey baster at a grocery store, DO NOT use the wife's baster ) and clean out all the gunk that remains. Refill with a DOT3 brake fluid and bleed the system. You have to remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and keep it level while bleeding. See if this makes any difference.

If there is a leak in the master or slave, the chances are that it will not hold fluid and another air pocket will develop. There are rebuild kits available for the cylinders, but if the piston in either one has indications of pitting, they are pretty much beyond rebuilding. NAPA should have reman units. Also the hose between the master and slave can be bad. This is no longer available from GM. Ecklers has a replacement part that is pricey and it does not fit well. IF you have a bad hose, a local shop that makes hydraulic hoses should be able to fabricate one for you easily.
Try moving the steering wheel slightly as you try to turn the ignition key. Is the shifter in Reverse?? When I had the clutch replaced on my 87, I told the shop to not reconnect the reverse lockout cable. You have to have the shifter in Reverse in order to remove the key if the cable is attached so check to see if the cable is attached at the shifter. When the key is removed, the steering wheel will lock. Hopefully you won't have to remove the steering column to fix this issue but....
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Old 12-07-04, 11:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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C4Cruise has this nailed; right on!.

I believe that the slave cylinder has to be rotated, however, about 45* (actuator end up) to properly bleed it. Else, your efforts will not fully improve the spongy pedal.

The clutch fluid would have a tough time getting to the clutch disc, as the actuator is outside the bell housing and low on it. Similarly, the clutch master and reservoir is outside the cabin, on the firewall. I doubt it will leak inside, but it isn't too hard to check the clutch rod for wetness.

Has anyone found a shop who would sleeve these parts with SS? e-mail me if you have, please.
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Old 12-07-04, 03:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhalePirot
I doubt it will leak inside,...
Well, it DID!

Bob
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Last edited by NC2Stay; 12-07-04 at 03:53 PM. Reason: fix typo
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Old 12-07-04, 03:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC2Stay
Well, it DID!

Bob
it is pretty common for it to come down and leak on your foot, or in that general area. not sure why, but a corvette tech told me that when my '93 had a bad slave... in fact, he told me to look inside for the leak
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Old 12-07-04, 09:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC2Stay
Well, it DID!
Cool. I learned another thing today! Mine didn't leak inside but was pitted and not rebuildable.

Still looking for a 'sleever'.
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