differential crossmember help

Ok after removeing everything including the two bolts that hold the crossmember it still doesn't want to drop down. Is there a trick to getting this off? Also should the top of the crossmember have slight bend, the bottom side that the differential bolts to looks straight.

[Bob Chadwick]

I've read that you usually have to give it a little hlep with a pry bar. Make sure the differential is supported by a jack so it doesn't fall to the floor, or worse, when it comes in loose.

[mike weyman]

i took mine out last year to change the seals. once you get it unbolted the fun has just begun.one side of mine came out fairly easily, the other side i had to soak with penetrating oil for several days and tap with a hammer as i applied more oil, then get a BIG crowbar and literally pry the two halves apart.i bent a cheap crowbar in this attempt.
if you are taking the pumpkin out you will need to remove the shocks.
when you have the both sides loose you will want to push down and back. my muffler holder straps got in the way and i had to unbolt the tailpipes and drop them.(would have had to drop them anyway)
if you need any more info that i can provide just ask.mike

[GTR1999]

If the long pry bar doesn't work you can use a puller just be careful not to distort the crossmember.Be sure to have the jack about 1/2" under the rear end when it drops, you're working with a solid 120lbs.

[John Kuzman]

John,
I agree with the previous post. I soaked both of the crossmember sombreros with PB Blaster from evey conceivable angle for several days. I then went to the local bolt store and purchased bolts of the same thread size as the two that you removed, but about 1 1/2" longer. I installed the longer bolts leaving enough threads so that the bolt head would catch the crossmember once it was pried loose. Then... use the biggest, heaviest prybar available to mankind!!! When those sombreros finally pop loose, you will hear a loud bang (actually, a thud in my case) and the crossmember will suddenly pop loose and be supported by the head of the previously installed, longer bolt. Do one side at a time, be careful of pinch points, sudden movement of the prybar and watch your wheelwells.
Once both sides are loose, securely support the rear differential and remove the long bolts. Good luck.

[Bob Chadwick]

John,

Nice tip about the longer bolts. That will probably save a dropped differential or two.

Bob

[norvalwilhelm]

Don't use a pry bar. If you slip you will damage the paint . Use a large gear puller if you have one but I found a better way.
Re install the 2 bolts but leave about 1/2 inch of play so when the cross member falls down these bolts catch it. YOu do not want to drop it.
Use 2 large chissels , use them like a pickle fork. Starting on either side , it doesn't matter , put one in front and one behind the stuck pocket. Insert them between the crossmember and frame and then using a hammer tap on one then the other driving them in like a wedge. This will pop the crossmember off and it will drop to the bolt.
Do the other side then use a jack to carry the weight remove the 2 bolts and lower the rearend/crossmember. Try this method, it works.

Thanks, soaked it with liquid wrench lastnight and tonight just tapped and they came loose. Thanks again jw

[problemenko]

Guys, thanks for the tips. I'm pulling my diff on Saturday. I guess I should start soaking all the parts with penetrant.

[mike weyman]

you will not damage the body or paint if you use the bar in a downward motion, do not lift on the prybar or if it slips you will damage the body.

I recently had all my suspension bushings replaced, except the ones for the cross-member. I have an unusual vibration at speeds above 65 mph. The faster I go, the worse it gets. It has all the same simptoms of a bad U-joint, but all the U-joints seem fine, but I may replace them anyway. I'm wondering if the old bushings in the cross-member could be causing my vibration. Anyone had a similar problem?