Damage Control: Finishing a rebuild, help me!

Ok, it's my first engine rebuild. I'm 19. This is by far the most exhaustive research project I've ever done. I read a dozen books, spent countless hours on this addictive forum, and better yet spent even more time putting the damn thing together.

I'm nervous people...

Here's where we stand. I've got then engine in, but without a few minor things.

First off, I didn't attache the oil pan before putting in the engine and now have to take apart the steering I suppose to get the damn thing on. Any advice?

Secondly and more importantly the timing. I had the thing at TDC when I was gettin it in but after turning the crank a bit to get the flywheel to spline with the tranny it's off by about 45 degrees. The engine's been in about 4 days and I tried to take care of the timing yesterday but then crank wouldn't turn and I was fearful that I might strip the bolt. I layed off and raced to the computer. I need someone to give me some advice here. Should I get everything together and then just crank the engine and let the starter turn the damn thing for a while? Should I tighten the number one cylinder so that I know when both valves are closed? Which of the two rocker arms for each cylinder is the Intake and Outake? I could use some help...

Next are the headers I got. I used to have stock exhaust manifolds and have purchased some hooker headers (god i wanted sidepipes but the pocket wouldn't allow it) and need to cut the existing exhaust pipes down to allow for the connection to the headers. How should I go about doing this. Is there an adapter from the smaller exhaust pipe that I can merely bolt on the the bigger Header connector. It's a 3 inch outside diameter pipe on the header connection. But I don't know how big the exhaust pipe is without measuring. It's considerably smaller though. Perpaps 2 inches? I just don't know.

And lastly, if anyone has any advice on tuning my Q-Jet that'd be great. I never have gotten the hang of it!

THanks everyone.

andrew

[78SilvAnniv]

Originally Posted by andrewmckernon

Which of the two rocker arms for each cylinder is the Intake and Outake? I could use some help...

When you look at the top side of your head, with the valve cover off, the valves will be as follows: EI, IE, EI, IE. (exhaust/intake; next set intake/exhaust, and so on...)
You can also tell by looking at either the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold, to see which valves/rockers are positioned next to which ports. To reduce confusion when we put ours together, I used a sharpie pen and marked I and E on the rim of the head where the gasket goes.
Good luck!
Heidi

[AKRAY4PLAY]

Andrew,

don't get to worked up. first pull your spark plugs, it sounds like you are having to fight the compression to turn the motor. or your tranny is in gear and you're trying to turn the whole drivetrain. with the plugs out, you should not take anymore than 50 ft/lbs to turn the motor over. with both valves closed on #1 cyclinder and pressure coming out of the spark plug hole, use your finger to check when rolling the motor, roll the timing marks around to near "0" on the damper. then you can stab your distributor trying to line up the rotor with the number one terminal. test fit the dist cap and rotor, and mark #1 on the distributor with a sharpie so you'll have a reference after removing the cap. the rotor will turn as it drops in. the flange for the distributor hold down fork should mate flush with the intake manifold. if it does not, you can do two things. first is pull the distributor and use a long screw driver to align the oil pump shaft with the distributor drive gear. second is the method i use, just turn the motor easy by hand until the distributor drops in. if using the second method, DO NOT FORCE THE MOTOR IF YOU FEEL A BIND! the bind would come from the cam and dist gears locking up. it is rare that it ever happens, but it has happened so be carefull. after that, your good to set the timing around 10* BTDC by eyeing it.
bummer on not getting the pan on before the install. you need to pull the steering linkage or motor mount bolts and raise the motor enough to clear. it all depends on if you are using a windage tray or not. if you can spring for it, get a FELPRO one piece rubber gasket for the pan. they worth more than their money in gold.
most exhaust shops can get your headers crossed over for a nominal price. or you're looking at a dual kit or a bunch of adapters and misc fittings. good luck, Brian.

[GerryLP]

Andrew,

Like Brian said, its that straight forward; however, on the sharpee trick, temporarily place the distributor cover on the distributor before installation, and mark the base of the distributor with a vertical line where the #1 ignition wire would connect to the rotor cap, then remove the cover, and trace the mark horizontally so that the mark is visible from above when you're sliding in the distributor.

The engine rotating trick is cool, but I would suggest NOT trying it on a fresh rebuild, for the clearances are tight, and it is harder to determine whether you're binding or whether its just tight clearances.

Find a point near the top dead center and use the timing plate to set the damper "0" mark aligned with whatever value you want to set for the initial timing (i.e. align the damper mark with the 10 deg Before top dead center on the timing plate if you want to set the engine's initial timing at 10 deg). Then it's just a matter of dropping the distributor in place while aligning the distributor rotor tip with the horizontal sharpee mark you made earlier.

New cam in place? Then apply break-in lube on the distributor gear teeth.

Gerry

CAUTION advised. You state crank would not turn. Is there any chance a valve is hitting a piston. If the engine feels like it is locking up when truning over by hand, loosen all rocker arms and try again. If it now turns over freely, you may have a piston/valve clearance problem. Definately don't crank it with the starter until you are certain you have proper clearance as the starter torque is enough to bend a valve or punch one right thru a piston.

[titan81]

Yep double and triple check your valves to pistons.
May not be it, but better to check now.

ok, I worked all day, off and on in the rain. I checked and rechecked the clearances, they're fine.

I went on to check the shifter to see if it was in gear and was not, tried to rotate engine and it did not. I took out the distributor I had already put in and tried to turn engine, not able to.

I then realized I didn't have the clutch linkage connected, so I connected it and checked neutral shifter and tried to turn, did not turn.

The engine turned over fine when I was putting it in. I just think it's a lubrication problem in the cylinders. I lubed them but only with a bit of oil to get the pistons in.

Should I connect all the wiring and turn the key a few times to let the starter turn it over a few times. I have the distributor in now so it will move the oil pump...

Any ideas?

andrew, Without being there to help you personally, I would err on the cautious side. The engine absolutely must be free to turn over by hand, Like Akray4play said earlier in thread. with the spark plugs out you should be able to spin it. If you can't, it seems to me something is binding it up. You don't say if it is a stroker (350 to 383) with connecting rod hitting block at pan level or rod hitting bottom of cylinder bore or huge valve lift.Was the block seriously decked? could a piston ring be sized incorrectly and hanging on cylinder wall? Only you as the builder can answer those questions. I have never seen and engine that couldn't be turned by hand if put together with the right clearances. If it were me, I would do whatever I had to do to make sure it spins over by hand before cranking with the starter. If the motor could be turned over 360 degrees before you installed it in the car, it would almost have to be problem with clutch or tranny. some one else may have more ideas for you. Good luck.

Originally Posted by curtis

If the motor could be turned over 360 degrees before you installed it in the car, it would almost have to be problem with clutch or tranny. some one else may have more ideas for you. Good luck.

I think curtis's evaluation would be the direction I'd take next. I wonder, in addition to tranny and clutch, if the starter is involved somehow.


Ray

its a 350 with no bore. I swapped old parts for new. That's all. No new clearances to deal with. Everything the same.

I'm just gonna turn it over with the starter tomorrow and see how it goes...

andrew