Oil pan removal...

Edmond · 10-18-04, 05:39 PM

Another member, Bonnell, and I have a question:

Does the engine need to be lifted in order to remove the oil pan. He is going to do it soon and I'm going to do it over the winter.

Is it a pretty straight forward take the bolts off, remove gasket, clean off remnant of old gasket, install new gasket and then new oil pan simple?

WNH · 10-18-04, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmond

Another member, Bonnell, and I have a question:

Does the engine need to be lifted in order to remove the oil pan. He is going to do it soon and I'm going to do it over the winter.

Is it a pretty straight forward take the bolts off, remove gasket, clean off remnant of old gasket, install new gasket and then new oil pan simple?

Seems staight forward, why would the engine need to be lifted???

1stiff84 · 10-18-04, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmond

Another member, Bonnell, and I have a question:

Does the engine need to be lifted in order to remove the oil pan. He is going to do it soon and I'm going to do it over the winter.

Is it a pretty straight forward take the bolts off, remove gasket, clean off remnant of old gasket, install new gasket and then new oil pan simple?

Don't know if it's the same setup as in my '84, but the only thing I had to remove was starter.

Edmond · 10-18-04, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne88

Seems staight forward, why would the engine need to be lifted???

It was a question posted by another member that I didn't know the answer to. Check the out the oil pan thread in the C4 buy/sell section.

tnovot · 10-18-04, 09:05 PM

Yes, clean the pan and lower block surface well and the groove in the bottom of the timing chain cover.
Also make sure the rails on the pan and around the bolt holes are not bent or deformed. If so, straighten prior to reinstalling.
Check the bolt hole threads for crud such as pieces of gasket and or gasket compound.
When reinstalling, use a good gasket sealer and put a small dab of BLACK (better oil resistance than red) RTV at the corners where the side cork gaskets meet the front and rear neoprene pieces. Better yet might be to try to get one of those new 1 piece gaskets from Felpro.
Tighten each pan bolt not all at once but in a series of sequences so that the pan is gradually and evenly pulled up against the sealing surface of the block.
Yeh, this is a pretty routine job but still, there are important details to know about. A good shop manual or engine overhaul/building book will help you with these and other basic procedures. Common sense and experience also are helpful.

rrubel · 10-18-04, 09:20 PM

You've gotta remove the starter (as mentioned) and the oil cooler lines if equipped, and the metal plate that sits in front of the transmission. Then it's straightforward.

May I suggest getting the Felpro blue gasket kit? It comes with a dry-install pan gasket, new gaskets for the oil cooler, and an ingenious installation aid - four long plastic "screws" that you start in the corners that the pan (with gasket) snaps onto. It's then held in place while you do the rest of the bolts; you finish by unscrewing the plastic things and putting the corner bolts in. Simple.

[RICHR]

Bonnell · 10-19-04, 07:51 AM

Thanks for the help. Edmond, thanks for creating the thread.

Where can I find the Felpro gasket? Is it a common part?

Edmond · 10-19-04, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonnell

Thanks for the help. Edmond, thanks for creating the thread.

Where can I find the Felpro gasket? Is it a common part?

Call your local auto parts stores and see if they stock it. Oil pan gaskets are pretty common items but I don't know if Felpro is a common brand that they would stock.

Even if they don't stock it; most stores around here are pretty good about ordering stuff and getting it in within a couple of days.

tnovot · 10-19-04, 08:28 PM

And, I suggest tagging your ignition key, putting a piece of tape over the ignition, or at least setting out several quarts of oil in a conspicuous place to remind you to refill.
It wouldn't be the first time someone started an engine with a dry pan - especially after doing other things like reinstalling starter, reconnecting battery, and interruptions and phone calls, etc which can tend to focus attention away from the initial job. It's even been known to happen to at least one experienced mechanic at a GM dealership.

rrubel · 10-20-04, 07:44 PM

AutoZone carries the kit with all the gaskets I mentioned.
[RICHR]

1stiff84 · 10-20-04, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrubel

You've gotta remove the starter (as mentioned) and the oil cooler lines if equipped, and the metal plate that sits in front of the transmission. Then it's straightforward.

May I suggest getting the Felpro blue gasket kit? It comes with a dry-install pan gasket, new gaskets for the oil cooler, and an ingenious installation aid - four long plastic "screws" that you start in the corners that the pan (with gasket) snaps onto. It's then held in place while you do the rest of the bolts; you finish by unscrewing the plastic things and putting the corner bolts in. Simple.

[RICHR]

As Rich had mentioned, I also had good success with this gasket on my '84. It is a one-piece blue silicone gasket by FelPro. It was from FelPro's PermaDry Plus line. The last of three gaskets I tried.

motorman · 10-20-04, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmond

Another member, Bonnell, and I have a question:

Does the engine need to be lifted in order to remove the oil pan. He is going to do it soon and I'm going to do it over the winter.

Is it a pretty straight forward take the bolts off, remove gasket, clean off remnant of old gasket, install new gasket and then new oil pan simple?

buy a felpro 1 piece gasket and save yourself a lot of greif messing with the 4 piece type

berky2500 · 10-20-04, 09:38 PM

Agreed, the Felpro Blue one-piece gasket from Auto Zone was pretty simple to install, no messing with trying to hold it in place. The plastic screws work great.
The only trouble I had was taking the pan down. one of the connecting rod bolts hit on the edge of the pan at the front. I had to put the starter back in and bump it to move the rod up out of the way. I didn't like doing it, but couldn't figure any other way to get the pan down.