All Around Bushing Replacement

EOLIVER · 09-11-04, 11:40 PM

I have a 1987 coupe and was wondering how much i could expect to pay to have a complete poly urethane bushing kit installed?

Edmond · 09-12-04, 12:13 AM

Check out Vette Brake and Performance, they are a sponsor on this forum. That will give you a cost on how much the kit of bushings would cost. As for cost of labor if you're not doing it yourself, I have no idea.

09-15-04, 04:14 PM

I don't know about having it installed,but you can buy a kit for around $500.00.

09-16-04, 02:22 AM

Go to www.suspension.com and look for your year setup. Their prices are by far the cheapest and shipping is lightning fast! Great people to deal with! As far as the labor, save yourself the money and do it yourself. I did mine in 3 days and replaced upper and lower ball joints, outer tie and toe rod ends, and sway bar bushings. It's pretty simple but a tedious process. If you're in that far to replace the bushings than opt to do the rest and save yourself the headache of later. As far as a suspension kit with everything needed(poly graphite bushings, upper and lower ball joints, and front tie rod ends) than go to www.powerperformancemotorsports.com and buy the front kit for $220 and the rear for $85. The only thing that you'll need to buy that doesn't come in the kit is the sway bar bushings for the rear. Things that come in handy when doing the job is a vice, a 3 arm puller, a drill with steel bits, and lots of synthetic marine grease. The grease that comes with the kits is very sticky and is suppose to last but I found that marine grease worked best. Put it on so thick that when you squeeze the two peice bushings together grease is squeezing out the side. On some parts such as the upper a-arm for the front suspension I found that an alignment shop could press them in better than doing them at home. To do a nice job and have a rebuilt suspension runs around $375 with all of the parts. A few more dollars for some labor and an alignment as you'll need a 4 wheel alignment when you are done and you're all set. If you have any questions than I'll be more than happy to help. Good Luck!!!!

EOLIVER · 09-16-04, 09:33 PM

Thanks for the advice everyone.

tdr1919 · 10-07-04, 03:03 PM

Goldeneye,
Did you do the job on the ground (no lift) on jack stands? I need to do my 86, all around. I'd like to save some bucks and do it myself.
Thanks,
Tom

10-09-04, 11:14 AM

Did all of my work on jack stands. I have two pair and am a little paranoid about being crushed so I was pretty safe. My car was up there at close to 20"-24" off the ground. Gave me plenty of room to work. Just last week I finished up with the differential carrier bushings and new u-joints throughout on jackstands and had more than enough room. What an improvement with differential carrier bushings!!!!! I was amazed at going with poly in the suspension components but when I added the differential carrier bushings I was SHOCKED at what an improvement in ride quality I gained. I've had some time this summer to add dynamat throughout the car and after my suspension upgrades my 85 rides like it was new and even sounds like a new car when you hit the bumps. I also took time to make sure my top was adjusted to get rid of those horrible squeaks. I loved the vette before but putting her in storage is going to be hard this year as I still want to drive her. Oh well, something to look forward to for next year!

tdr1919 · 10-09-04, 10:49 PM

Goldeneye thanks for the reply, BUT as I look around the forum I se some real horror
stories about the one-piece upper bushing and what an almost impossible job it is to get in. Is it the brand of bushings that you are using or is it a technique that you can share?
Thanks,
Tom

geekinavette · 10-09-04, 11:50 PM

I did everything goldeneye mentioned on my '84 recently also. The front ball joints aren't too bad to do with a ball joint press you can "rent" from Autozone (you pay a deposit, then get all of it back when you return it). I did have some trouble with the one piece front upper bushing on one side, just trimmed a little of the "lip" off the bushing and it slid right in. Other side gave me no problems.

Bill

10-11-04, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdr1919

Goldeneye thanks for the reply, BUT as I look around the forum I se some real horror
stories about the one-piece upper bushing and what an almost impossible job it is to get in. Is it the brand of bushings that you are using or is it a technique that you can share?
Thanks,
Tom

Nope, no tricks here. I used a heavy hydraulic shop press (100 ton) here at work and had no problems in getting it in on one side. On the other side, I took it to my local alignment shop and they did it in like 15 minutes. I honestly believe that to be your best bet as they are going to have the proper tools and know-how to press in those one peice bushings. The $20 that I spent there saved me a little bit of worry as the first one I was shaking in my boots seeing the maintenance mechanic where I work press that bushing in. In fact that same mechanic and I were pressing out one of the endlink bushings and we snapped it. The socket got cock-eyed and went off track when we were using the press. These guys I work with are not to be deterred so in about 3 hours I had a new end link made out of aluminum and finished my endlink job the next day. You'll be impressed with yourself when you start this job because you'll be thinking what have I done but in no time you'll have the job finished and be thinking what was I waiting for. I did all of my own work up til those top one peice bushings. Don't trim anything on any of the bushings!. They were made to fit our applications and they DO go in the way they were suppose to. The guy previous might have got his in but could have trouble down the road. The old bushings had the lip and so do the new ones...must be a reason why they are there. Not hacking on anyone, just giving my own opinion. Good luck!!!! If you have anymore questions let me know.

geekinavette · 10-11-04, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goldeneye_vet

Don't trim anything on any of the bushings!. They were made to fit our applications and they DO go in the way they were suppose to. The guy previous might have got his in but could have trouble down the road. The old bushings had the lip and so do the new ones...must be a reason why they are there. Not hacking on anyone, just giving my own opinion.

Good grief, I didn't say I trimmed the ENTIRE lip off...just a few thousanths. I don't care how much pressure was applied to it...IT DIDN'T FIT. You have to realize this is a high-volume manufacturing environment...the tolerances are probably larger than you care to know about, nothing is exact. Of course the lip is there for a reason, the control arm would slide back-and-forth if there were no lip on the inside end of the bushing.

Bill