Mobile One

aftershk · 05-08-04, 08:25 AM

Goodmorning,
I have a question reguarding Mobile One Oil,
Last summer I purchaced my C-4 yellow coupe with an odometer readind 29,000 miles, the dealer could not tell me the history of the car due to the prior owner who he said now lives out of state, but from examining the car it was very well cared for. Not knowing what type of oil was used, the dealer used the standard required oil whatever that was, I was only able to put 1000 miles on the car due to our wonderful weather here in upstate New York before tucking her away for the never ending winter, but before I did I switched to Mobile One Oil on the recommendation of a friend who works on cars. I should say here I am a cabinet maker and changing oil is about the extent of my machanical skills when it comes to cars.... I have now been told by several people I would not call experts that the car could start to burn oil because of the switch I made?
before I start to drive her again I thought I would ask the experts.
Thanks for the help, Confused

malc350 · 05-08-04, 09:56 AM

It was specified for use by Chevy for the LT1 (92 up) in 5W30 (or 10W30 could also be used) as THE oil to use.

I own a Callaway and they specify ONLY Mobil 1 (15W50 - don't use this in a regular vette!)

Whenever I've taken the valve covers off or looked in the engine of a car that has run on Mobil1 (either all its life or from early on) the engine looks like new, i.e. there's no combustion sludge or anything like that.

Synthetic oil has a reputation for finding its way out of any leaks that may exist on an engine so that's probably what people mean.

There are loads of threads on these forums praising Mobil 1. I for one wouldn't use anything else!

c4cruiser · 05-08-04, 10:06 AM

I have heard stories about cars with higher mileage having some oil leak issues when the oil is switched to Mobil-1 from a regular dino oil but not oil burning issues. Apparently there are some characteristics of synthetics that allow the oil to clean better and get into tiny gaps in gaskets. The synthetics in effect cleans so well that any particles that were trapped in gasket materials that plug these tiny holes disappear and may now allow seepage. At 29K miles, you should expect some oil drips simply becase of the low miles on the car. Gaskets will shrink and harden in a car that sits for long periods, such as over a winter or maybe if only driven once a month or less.

As far as the lubricating qualities of Mobil-1, I believe they are much better than dino oil and worth their use along with a quality filter (stay away from Fram!!). When GM built the LT1 motor for the 92 and later C4's, they decided to do away with the oil cooler found in the L98 cars. That led to higher oil temps and using Mobil-1 prevented any heat-related oiling problems. On track days, I have seen oil temps in the 240-260 range with my 92 and no lubrication problems at all.

Keep an eye one the floor under the motor to see if you are getting drops of oil. If you drive the car regularly, you shouldn't have a problem. Oil changes will be more expensive, but you can also go longer between oil changes.

GerryLP · 05-08-04, 10:26 AM

I used Mobil 1 on my L81 for years. The engine was running fine (except for an anoying idle miss and stumble). The engine accumulate 148,000 miles, and when I decided to change the engine (the L81 is in my garage and now the car has a 355 with which I experiment) all that I found was slight condensation trail in the #8 cylinder which tends to be caused by short operation of the engine and long rest periods.

The rest of the block is inmaculate: the pistons, rods, crankshaft, block, heads, and so on on will only require cleaning and new seals / rings / bearings.

In my opinion and experience, Mobil 1 oil is superior to any mineral oil and quite possibly to any synthetic oil.

aftershk · 05-08-04, 04:00 PM

Thanks for the replies!
Guess I stick with the Mobile 1, you guys convinced me..
As far as the oil leaks, I am under the impression this car has been in storage for the last four years, and after driving about 800 miles I did notice the smell of oil burning coming from under the hood.
After close inspection I realized it is driping on the exaust below the engine.
I cleaned the undercarrige and jacked the car up, started it and climbed under for a look, it seems to be following the fly wheel cover on the outside, and the seephole on the bottom is dry. I'm wondering if it could be valve covers leaking or something else. At first I was concerned it might be the main seal, but it seems to be leaking from up higher on the engine and without getting it on a lift
I can't see. I going to have to start driving this car more, instead of polishing and turning the garage around it into a shrine devoted to Corvettes!
Wife thinks I'm losing it! I just think she's jealous.
Thanks again, Paul

c4cruiser · 05-08-04, 06:25 PM

Leaks from either valve cover gasket or even the real seal on the back of the intake manifold are very possible. It may be that driving the car will cause enough expansion and contraction of the gaskets that they may stop leaking.

In any event drive it and have fun!!

taegdh · 05-08-04, 07:55 PM

Don't overlook the seal on the back of the intake manifolr. These are notorious for leaking, and many have used black rtv sealer to fix this.

Lots of luck!

Edmond · 05-08-04, 08:21 PM

I use Mobil 1 synthetic. You can pick up a 5 quart container at Wal Mart for $21.00. Make sure to use a good filter, no FRAM. I've been using the K&N filter lately; it has a 1" hex on the bottom of the filter so no need for a filter wrench.

They're pricey, at $10 a filter, but it's cheap insurance.

Spinman · 05-08-04, 09:59 PM

How about vehicles that did not specify synthetic oil from the factory?

Can I switch my Low Mileage 1990 L98 to Mobil 1 w/o any problems - or should I stick with petro based products? Does the viscosity range change or would I stick the same (10w30 as I recall off the top of my head)....

Edmond · 05-08-04, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinman

How about vehicles that did not specify synthetic oil from the factory?

Can I switch my Low Mileage 1990 L98 to Mobil 1 w/o any problems - or should I stick with petro based products? Does the viscosity range change or would I stick the same (10w30 as I recall off the top of my head)....

I switched without any problems at all. Just stay with the same viscosity.

Vettefan87 · 05-08-04, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinman

How about vehicles that did not specify synthetic oil from the factory?

Can I switch my Low Mileage 1990 L98 to Mobil 1 w/o any problems - or should I stick with petro based products? Does the viscosity range change or would I stick the same (10w30 as I recall off the top of my head)....

I was told by many people before i switched to synthetic that it is best to stay with the same oil the car was broken in on whether that be synthetic or convential motor oil. I switched to 10w40 Castrol synthetic, and about 5 months later I blew an intake gasket I dont know if this has anything to do with it or if its just my bad luck.

GerryLP · 05-08-04, 11:18 PM

It's just like Edmond said. Use the viscosity for the particular wheather conditions. Out here in the south west is good to use 40 of even 50 weight oil; however, I wait until it really gets hot to switch into 50 weight. One draw back of heavier weight oil is that it does rob slightly your milage, but at least the worries are gone when one is seating in traffic at 115 deg F and the A/C is on.

Vettefan, it probably was bad luck on your leak problem.

On aircraft engines, some engine oil types can be mixed and some cannot. Those that cannot require a complete flush of the system (in a dry-sump engine that usually means teardown of the engine). Some other oil types can be used for a limited operating time and then the engine must be drained (but not flushed).

I still don't know why the usual recommendation is that once switched to Mobil 1 then continue to use Mobil 1. Maybe someone can chime in their knowledge on this question.

malc350 · 05-09-04, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edmond

I use Mobil 1 synthetic. You can pick up a 5 quart container at Wal Mart for $21.00.

Come over here, that's $80 in "rip-off Britain"!

Grizzly · 05-10-04, 10:28 AM

Check out the Mobil Oil site. It has lots of info and Q&A on Mobil 1. I use the Mobil 1 filter. For most of us oil changes are a one or at most a twice a year expense.

As far as I'm concerned it is the resistence to breakdown from heat that is it's real value. I've even put it in my '67. I'm hoping that it will help to keep down the sludge from running it so irregularly. And in parade work help to protect the engine when the temps get up.

1995 RedVette · 05-10-04, 12:51 PM

I have a 95 Vette that I bought with about 95,000 on the clock. The oil comes out as clean as it goes in!! I change the oil every 5,000 miles. One thing that I haven't seen mention here is the Mobil 1 plaque like the one that is under the hood of my car. When the hood is open, it is right above the radiator in the center of the hood. I just assumed that all of the LT-1 cars came from the factory with Mobil 1 and that plaque just the signify that.

Brett