Looked at a 84 vette, Fuel pump went bad in test drive..

Tampa · 05-06-04, 08:25 AM

Newbie at the whole corvette love fest...went to Miami 2 days ago to look at a 84 corvette with 116,000 miles for $5000.00 Price was right..said to be in decent condition runs well ect ect...

Test drove it for 2 hours, seemed to run ok, little rough at spots. The interior was new, new seats, new carpet. However...I parked the car and would not start again...Called the guy up he came out and was finally able to get it started. Said it was the fuel filter...he changed it right at the shop..no fix...mechanic told me there was rust in it..then said it was the fuel pump. I left at that point(a wasted 5 hour trip from Tampa) He said he would call me today After he replaced the pump. Stating this was definitily the problem for sure.

My question. I am only learning about corvettes now by reading the forum. Is this a really really bad sign and to stay away from this vehicle or is this something to be expected and be glad this was taken care of now (less money from me)

Any thoughts would be nice. I am paying $5,000 but will go up to $7,500 for a vette. Any thoughts from the experienced crew out there would be helpful.

Thanks

Edmond · 05-06-04, 09:39 AM

For the money you're willing to pay; I would wait and keep looking. I would go with something 88' or newer because of:

L98, which the 84' doesn't have.
bigger tires and brakes.
general improvements to the vehicle.

As for that fuel pump, if it was the original, it's had a long 20 year life. Buying a preowned Corvette isn't different from any other preowned car; there will be things that go wrong with age.

Tuna · 05-06-04, 10:29 AM

Rust in the fuel filter and a bad fuel pump are an indication that moisture got in the tank some where along the way. This happens lots of time when the cars sets for long periods of time in high humidity areas.

This happened to a car I bought a few years ago. I didn't find it on the test drive. After replacing the filter, the fuel pump, tank pick up and float and having the rust swabbed out of the tank, the car ran perfect and is still running perfect. I had the fuel filter replaced again after 4-5 months just to make sure that all the rust got out of the system.

This car may still be one to consider, may not. Like Edmond said, a 20 year old car is going to have some things that need attention.

1995 RedVette · 05-06-04, 10:56 AM

If you are looking for the most performance for the buck, you should look for at least an 87 and up. My first Vette was an 86 with iron heads. It ran ok but the 87 I had right after, was a much better running car. With the 87 you are getting the aluminum head L98 (some 86 models have them too, but with the 87 you will be sure), bump in hp and a more improved car. Every year the C4 go better. If you have not dorve one of the mid to later C4's you should go look at one, even if it is out of your price range. That way you will have another car to compare with the next you look at.

Brett

Tampa · 05-06-04, 11:00 AM

I have been having a real hard time finding vettes 87 and up for under $7500. Very good advice tho I appreciate it

Robbie

Edmond · 05-06-04, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tampa

I have been having a real hard time finding vettes 87 and up for under $7500. Very good advice tho I appreciate it

Robbie

Keep looking, they're out there. One mistake that a lot of people make is buying the first one on impulse. I'm not accusing you of doing the same or thinking the same. It's a long process and sometimes, the place you look the least is the place you end up buying from.

A lot of people take that first test drive and they're so overwhelmed by the car that they buy it without thinking further.

How mechanical are you? If you feel confident working on the car yourself; buy something that needs work for less money. If you don't work on cars yourself; this could be a considerable expense because a 20 year old car is going to have it's issues, Corvette or not.

robdunn1 · 05-07-04, 01:07 AM

Quick question for the group. How does rust get into the gas tank on a C4. I am buying an '85 from a friend and it has set for a while so I worry about contamination but I thought that I read in the shop manual that the tank is polyethylene lined. Seems like that would preclude rust build up. What am I missing?

Thanks as always for great advice.

Rob

Moonunit 451 · 05-07-04, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robdunn1

Quick question for the group. How does rust get into the gas tank on a C4. I am buying an '85 from a friend and it has set for a while so I worry about contamination but I thought that I read in the shop manual that the tank is polyethylene lined. Seems like that would preclude rust build up. What am I missing?

Thanks as always for great advice.

Rob

Lots of places have water in the gas, particularly if they are toward the bottom of the the tank when you hit the station.

Tampa, 88 and up for you. Be patient, you can find a decent one for that price. Might take a bit, and you may have to travel a little out of your area. Of course, this is not the best time of year to be buying

Tampa · 05-07-04, 09:20 AM

Some of you have said get 88 and above and some say 86 and above. We have one for sale in orlando for 8,000 1986, 51,000 miles. Should I be disregarding and only concentration on 88 and above?

Thanks

1995 RedVette · 05-07-04, 09:55 AM

It really depends on what you are looking for. The 85 and up cars are fuel injected. By in large the 85 and 86 are the same. However, the later 86's having aluminum heads rather than iron. If you are looking for a nice car to enjoy on the weekends, and just drive, then you will find a high degree of satisfaction with most any model Corvette. They are all really great cars. If you are the more performance minded, and want to work on the car and make it run better, take it to the strip on friday night, or just plain spank a few Mustangs, then the later year cars are a better foundation to build on.

Brett

Tampa · 05-07-04, 09:58 AM

Just seeking to ride several times a week, not seeking to race...but good advice thank you

Moonunit 451 · 05-07-04, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tampa

Just seeking to ride several times a week, not seeking to race...but good advice thank you

The biggest things between the 85-87 and 88 are the heads, which started in late 86. Then the brakes and wheel offsets changed (improved) in 88. Bigger front brakes, no adapters needed for real nice upgrades. Wheel offsets changed also giving you more options and avasilability at better prices for upgrades.

I agree with 95 RedVette that it depends what you want to do, but remember the car is old and if (when) you get the fever like we all do it's niced to have a better platform to start with. That 86 sounds like a nice low miles car, but still pricey, and keep in mind if these (or any) car sits for a long time without proper attention problems can result that may not be apparent on initial inspedtion. Good luck in your search

CELT4RAGTOP · 05-07-04, 08:32 PM

Tampa,

I don't know anything about it, but there is an 87 on Ebay that might be in your price range. Best of all its in Tampa somewhere.

Here's the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...477092164&rd=1

Tampa · 05-07-04, 10:22 PM

Thanks for the tip. Actually saw a real nice 87 with 125,000 miles..in great shape..went out riding for an hour, very smooth, great pickup, brakes..but he won't budge one inch from 8,000. Real tempted to pull the trigger but seems more experienced owners here feel that may be a bit much...

rob

Edmond · 05-07-04, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tampa

Thanks for the tip. Actually saw a real nice 87 with 125,000 miles..in great shape..went out riding for an hour, very smooth, great pickup, brakes..but he won't budge one inch from 8,000. Real tempted to pull the trigger but seems more experienced owners here feel that may be a bit much...

rob

How close to stock is the vehicle? What kind of mechanical shape is it in? How about the paint? Does he have the service history of the vehicle?