Stripped bolt head?! How do I recover?

Bob_K · 03-19-04, 07:24 PM

Update on my U-joint replacement. The partially stripped head on the 5/8" bolt connecting the hlaf shaft to the spindle flange is bad enough that even a 6 point socket won't get it. Right now I still get bite, but not enough before the socket rotates. I have the joint apart as far as I can get it by removing the other 3 bolts and am soaking everything in the best penetrating fluid I can get my hands on. I plan on soaking it all night, reapplying fluid every hour or so until I go to bed. Hopefully in the morning it will twist out. What if it doesn't? What's the best way to remove a bolt (that was probably over-torqued in in the first place) that has a partially stripped head? I don't have the french locks in place to deal with (they weren't installed) adding to my belief that this was something that a previous owner had screwed up and I'm paying the price for it. Not sure if that's good or bad. I wonder what other surprises I have waiting but at least I didn't mess it up! Any suggestions would be helpful.

JonM · 03-19-04, 07:38 PM

Hae you seen these ?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...seBVCookie=Yes

Bob_K · 03-19-04, 07:57 PM

No I haven't. Looks like a plan! My other options were going to be take a flex drive dremel and try to make the head smaller so another socket could be hammered on or cut the head off altogether. Worst case I was afraid I'd have to drill it our. Those tools look much better though since I don't have to won't have to worry about screwing up the u joint flange.

JonM · 03-19-04, 09:06 PM

Let us know how you make out.

Stallion · 03-19-04, 11:38 PM

Those should help, but worst comes to worst, you could just use an Easy-out. They work as well, but need drilling.

Blue82 · 03-19-04, 11:39 PM

I had a similar problem with my 82 when I dropped the drive shaft. I had one bolt on each strap round off on the rear u-joint. They were the thirteen point type heads and I couldn't keep enough pressure on the socket. I ended up having to bend the straps back to take the shaft off and then use a pair of vise grips to remove the bolts. I replaced them with new straps and six point u-joint bolts rather than the original thirteen point bolts.

Stallion · 03-19-04, 11:43 PM

Hmmmm...when I dropped my drive shaft (like a week ago), I had no problems at all getting those bolts undone.

I guess I had it easy.

bossvette · 03-19-04, 11:56 PM

usually when you cut the head off it takes the pressure off and the rest of the bolt comes out fairly easy. Those new sears sockets look good I think I'll leave a hint to the wife

Red69 · 03-20-04, 12:04 AM

If you have access to a welder, you could weld a fresh nut on top. Be sure to hit the center and a few spots on the outside perimeter. Now a socket and rachet should work. If the spot is too tight, a welded piece of angle or tubing might help break it loose. Remove the welded part for complete bolt removal.

Blue82 · 03-20-04, 12:09 AM

Hey Bossvette, I sure hope you are more subtle with the wife than my 18 year old was yesterday when he and a friend hinted to me that I buy him a new amp for his Strat. IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN!

Take care.

GTR1999 · 03-20-04, 07:15 AM

Those Sears bolt sockets work well, I used one to remove the #3 body bolt that sheared off. THe bolts tha were used on the spindle flange are 7/16-20 with a shoulder. Most likely you will only find the fully threaded gr 8 in a hardware store. You can use these but if you order a set of caliper bolts they are the same with the shoulder.

ronmichalek · 03-20-04, 08:12 AM

take a 15 mm socket and hammerit on.this should work.

IH2LOSE · 03-20-04, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonM

Hae you seen these ?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...seBVCookie=Yes

Excellent product I dont know what I have done with out them.

DONT use them with an impact or air gun once they start to spin they just chew up the head. Just put them on use a short breaker bar And give it a good controlled WRAP to shock it loose.Onece its loose you can just take it off.Some times SHOCK is the best way to remove something.Also using a breaker bar with NO exstention on it allows the most shock/fource to the stubborn bolt/nut.(the rackect/exstention axsorb some of the energy.

Good luck and be safe.

IH2LOSE · 03-20-04, 08:39 AM

I just re read my post.

DONT WASTE ANY MORE TIME

Get the remover it works like magic in removing stripped nuts/bolts.Any good quaility auto parts store will have them if a sears is too far away.

If the nut or bolt can come out this will do it for sure.

Bob_K · 03-20-04, 10:59 AM

Hopefully my wife will be getting home soon to hit the brakes so I can try one last time since it's been soaking in penetrating fluid. If not it's a side trip to Sears before I head over to my buddies to watch the end of the 12 hours of Sebring.