Brake system rebuild

[mikejpss]

Have made up my mind to replace the rotors,calipers, pads and rubber hoses to all 4 wheels, along with the trailing arm lines on my 81. An under car inspection shows the remaining system to be above average in condition, at least from a visual inspection.
Question: To remove the original rotors, must I remove the hubs too and drill off rivets that fasten the rotors to the hubs?

How difficult is it to remove the rear hubs-i.e., must the trailing arm be disassembled or can the hub be removed from the rear much like the front hub/rotor assembly?

When flushing the system, what should I use? I heard that pure rubbing alcohol was a good flush media, but would like some other "tried and true" techniques.

I am about to place an order for an entire new system and would like to know what I'm faced with ,time and labor-wise before I make the order.
Many thanks for your responses.

[like2drive]

I'm presently in the process of finishing up a similar job . I started off only needing to repair the parking brakes so to pass the NC Safety Inspection. I screwed up getting the rivets out on the first rotor which meant a new spindle/rotor. And doing one side meant having to do the other. and while I'was at it, did the bearings and eventually pulled the trailing arm(nightmare) for a rebuild and set-up.....very expensive. So, BEWARE!!
Brakes: While waiting on the TA rebuild, I decided to change the brake fluid and put on the new rubber/metal lines as you're doing. However.....one of the bleeder screws broke off, ...and the extractor bit broke off too. Soooooo...
Now I had to replace a caliper...full cost, no core allowance for calipers w/damaged bleeders......and if you do one side, you may as well do the .......
So...BEWARE...use plenty of PB Blaster whereever you disconnect.
Also, watch out for "run-out" on your discs. If not within tolearances with the spindle, it could get very interesting when you need brakes.
good luck.

What did you do that required a new spindle/rotor. How did you "screw up getting the rivets out"? My emergency brake components are shot as well and I feel I'll be going down the same path.

[like2drive]

all I started out to do was repairing the hand brakes so I could pass the NC Safety inspection. First time drilling out rivets, so I didn't really know where to stop. I later found the heads should , at some point, twirl off. How I screwed up : I kept step-drilling after unknowingly removing the rivet head , with bigger drills...I think I stopped at 1/2 inch. By that time I had ruined the rotor by having too large rivet holes, and ruined the spindle hub by also drilling goofy holes. Of course the second rotor was no problem.
On the Front rotors, I found after properly step drilling out the rivets, the dog gone thing wouldn't come lose from the hub. I eventually got it loose with much PB Blaster and a hammer.
An expected problem for an '81 is that because these parts are old, it is easier to break, strip, and destroy parts while removing.....which will require additional parts. Bleeder screws...aaahhhhh, my calipers, rotors , pads were all ok, but one thing led to another and I had to replace all. of course, You are PLANNING on that
Trailing Arm: Took me probably 10 hours and 15 blades to cut those 2 stupid bolts off....Counting the Sawzall rental, cost over $100.
I put KYBs on "while I was at it", and after the alignment ($120), this vette handles better than any I've had yet....didn't plan on all this, but what a difference! Good luck! Jim
PS: passed the Safety/Emission Test Last Week, now I'm removing the government stuff till next year.