Brakes

cwerve74 · 09-17-03, 06:39 PM

Just purchased this 1974 Vette. It has lots I can do to it but at the top of my list is the breaks. It has lots of Go but not much Whoa. Let me tell you what I did, what I know now and get your opinion. This is 1974 454 MT conv non-power brakes.

Inspected all 4 wheels and found what I think are new pads and rotors all around. Rear have new calipers both sides. Front calipers look old. Right front caliper was awash in brake fluid. I promptly got a rebuild kit and new pads put it back on the car. Bleed the brakes got hard pedal and went for a test ride. It was a heart stopper. At 10 miles into the ride no brake pedal. Ok re-bleed and the story goes on. Found this forum and got some education. Lots of air, I had no leaks but did have runout in the right front that you could see movment. I am sure it was more than the .010 limit. Even though the rotor looked new I had it turned. Don't see movment now but I can feel the pads move in/out as I rotate the hub & rotor. Still getting air.

Here is the question. Will the calipers with O rings fix the problem? Do I need to have the hub attached to the rotor when I have it turned? Could hub & wheel bearings be root cause? My runout is small (need to measure), but How did this design ever provide durability over the life of the car? Or more simply could the caliper look good but be old and defective.

I think my plan is going to be 2 new o-ring calipers on the front with new rubber hose. Get a dial indicator and get runout in spec. I want something that I can drive with confidence that I won't have any more heart stopping moments. Your opinions please.

09-17-03, 07:27 PM

CW, sounds like a good plan going with o-ring calipers. i would add stainless steel brake lines also. they help the feel at the pedal.
btw, what part of Memphis are you in? Bartlett class of "75" here.

990 miles to Graceland

robin

cwerve74 · 09-17-03, 09:09 PM

Thanks for the pointer on SS Brake Lines. Did not know they had flexable braided SS lines to replace rubber. Found them and the price was not much more than the rubber ones. Just want to fix this once. So I will do what ever it takes. I hate the thought of a small warp in a roter causing this cavitation problem and then no brakes. I just need reasurance on the O-ring thing.

BTW Class of 65 Tremper High Kenohsa, Wisconsin. Currently just East of Memphis and sometimes we think we can see the glow of graceland on a clear night with the all of the candles burning.

Vettehead Mikey · 09-18-03, 07:46 AM

Why not fix it properly- have the rotor machined together with the hub just like GM intended. Then you won't have to worry IF or HOW LONG things will last with an o-ring caliper.

The GM OEM set up is very durable. I have the original untouched (and unwarped) rotors on my '73. 125,000 miles and counting.

JohnZ · 09-18-03, 03:08 PM

Read this and you'll have a better understanding of your problem and what solution will work (and what won't, and why).

http://www.idavette.net/hib/BBfHInet12.htm

cwerve74 · 09-18-03, 06:07 PM

Thanks Vettehead Mikey

Got my service manual today and found that point in section 5-57.

Thanks JohnZ for the pointer to the great write-up. I now have a plan of action. Just getting started on ths project. Lots of fun ahead.