Spindle and Bearing Assy

OldSchool · 03-18-03, 12:52 PM

I am in the process of replacing my entire rear brake system. Lines, calipers and rotors and Ebrake. While in there, should I pull off the spindle and bearing assy? VanSteel has a procedure for replacing the bearings on their website. Are there any tricks that I should be aware of? I have only had the car for about a year, and the previous history is unknown. Is it worth the time and energy or is it opening up a can of worms? Thanks for your help...

03-18-03, 01:14 PM

I'm doing the same job you are, and you don't want to mess with the spindle and bearings. When I did mine in my 75, I took it to a GM dealership and they set the clearances up for me. I then took it apart and installed it back on the car using the proper torque to obtain the clearance the mechanic set up. If you are unsure of the bearings, take it apart yourself and have a specialist look at it. Just my 2 Vettes worth!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

Jack · 03-18-03, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by OldSchool
I am in the process of replacing my entire rear brake system. Lines, calipers and rotors and Ebrake. While in there, should I pull off the spindle and bearing assy? VanSteel has a procedure for replacing the bearings on their website. Are there any tricks that I should be aware of? I have only had the car for about a year, and the previous history is unknown. Is it worth the time and energy or is it opening up a can of worms? Thanks for your help...

Welcome aboard CACC! In general, it takes special tooling & gaging (most folks don't have access to) to properly set up the bearing clearances in rear. It would pay to have an expert take a look at your spindles while still assembled ... go from there. If you're simply talking about sending the assembled trailing arms off to Van Steel for a rebuild ... go for it.
JACK

Paul Borowski · 03-18-03, 03:58 PM

Bair's in Linesville,Pa does these for $150 per side providing all your components are "servicable". I have had them do 3 out of 5 of my Corvettes. I removed the bearing carrier from the trailing arm, took them myself to Bair's( I only live 105mi away)on a Monday and was picking them up on a Friday!!! They install Timken bearings, new backing plate and some e-brake hardware. They'll reuse your e-brake shoes, if they are good enough. These people are some of the best to deal with, been going to them for years.

03-19-03, 05:25 AM

What Jack failed to tell you is, if your trailing arms have never been taken off, there's a slim to none chance you can get them off. When I tried to get my 75's off, there was what looked like undercoating and rust and everything that car ever ran over on the bolt and nut. I kind of also remember that the bolt was very hard to get at and I believe there was also cotter pin involvement. I found it easier to just remove the spindle and bearing assembly. What made mine difficult was the outer bearing was welded to the spindle from driving it a mile after it went. I crippled the car back to my garage and 4 months later got to take it all apart, took it to a friend who used a torch to get the bearing off so I could remove whatever components were stuck on the spindle. CORVETTES-AREN'T THEY GRAND!!!!!! "(o)(o)"

Jack · 03-19-03, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jack
If you're simply talking about sending the assembled trailing arms off ... go for it

Quote:

Originally posted by ratdog
What Jack failed to tell you is, if your trailing arms have never been taken off, there's a slim to none chance you can get them off.

I agree the trailing arms will probably be difficult (rust-siezing) to remove. By “simply” I am not implying any of this is easy ... I was only attempting to differentiate between rear bearing rebuild and trailing arm removal. IMHO, although trailing arm removal is difficult, it can be done with minimal special tools & experience ... on the other hand, rear bearing rebuild is for experts having appropriate tooling, gaging & experience. Also, after so many years & miles it’s likely the trailing arms’ rubber-steel bushings need replacing. Hence, I suggest have an expert take a look ... determine if bearings need rebuild and/or T-arm bushings need replacing. If T-arms’ bushings are known to be good ... then I agree that removing only bearing-spindle assemblies (then an expert rebuilds them) is a better choice.
JACK

OldSchool · 03-20-03, 11:41 AM

I think I will try to get the TAs off,

and send them to a pro for bearing installation.. Thanks guys..:Roll

Tweek · 03-20-03, 03:40 PM

If you TA's are on since factory, be sure to pay close attention to the shims that are in there, how many, what size ect. Most of the arms I have removed are seized to the inner metal sleeve of the trailing arm bushing, making the job of getting the bolt out very hard. Spray everything days in advance. I haven't seen many that have shims and bolts worth saving, if this is the case, get a sawzall with a long metal blade, and just cut the bolt on both sides of the trailing arm and slide them ( TA ) out. You have to get a new bolt, and maybe a shim kit, (which I would do anyway) but the arms come out without any fuss in half the time