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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1997 - 2004 Corvettes > C5 Technical and Performance


C5 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1997 - 2004 Corvettes.

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Old 01-31-03, 04:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To Defeat the 1 to 4 Skip Shift- a guide for the mechanically challenged

If you are tired of having your C5 decide that you really didn't want to shift to 2nd, but instead 4th would be much better, this little inexpensive device will solve your problem.

If I can do this by myself, anybody can.

(note, this was performed on a z06 but would be very similar for other c5's )
Items needed:
- 2 rhino ramps
(if you wish to use a hydraulic jack and jackstands, that will work too)
- 2 2x10's, about 36 inches long
- 2 pieces of wood to chock the front wheels
- 5/16 open socket to disconnect the negative battery cable
- CAGS defeat device from ecklers (18.99 plus 5.99 shipping to GA)
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...N0SM2EPT1T02F5
- 2 bathmats (or possibly towels) to put under rhino ramps to keep them from sliding around on the concrete
- creeper (recommended but not necessary)

This method uses rhino ramps. (Pep Boys, approx $25)
1. Place each of the 2x10's lengthwise immediately behind the back wheels. Put down the bathmats immediately behind the boards and place the rhino ramps on the mats so they won't slip.
2. roll the car forward a few inches, then back it onto the boards.
When the back wheels are all the way on the boards, but not yet on the ramps, get out and check the ramps, making necessary adjustments so they
will be centered under the wheels.

click to enlarge image

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Old 01-31-03, 04:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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3. continue gently backing up onto the ramps until the wheels stop at the back of the ramps. Set the parking brake and turn off the engine.
4. make sure the back wheels are centered on the ramps and completely sturdy.

click to enlarge image

Last edited by MsSchroder; 11-07-04 at 09:02 PM. Reason: fixed photo link
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Old 01-31-03, 04:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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5. chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling forward.
6. disconnect the negative (black) battery cable (for me this took
a 5/16 wrench)
7. take the CAGS plug seal kit from Ecklers and disconnect the white male connector.

click to enlarge image
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Old 01-31-03, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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8. Secure your long hair, then roll under the back of the car, and
locate the transmission. It looks like the drawing in the previous step. Your clue is a sticker that says "use Dextron III ATF"
You are interested in the left (driver's) side of it.
9. locate the skip-shift solenoid. On my car, it is a beige "socket" with a white connector with a blue tip. Disconnect the white connector from the solenoid. (just lift up on the clip that holds it in place and pull it out)

This pic shows it partially disconnected.
click to enlarge

Last edited by MsSchroder; 11-07-04 at 09:11 PM. Reason: fixed broken photo link
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Old 01-31-03, 04:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Now, here is the goal:
You are going to take apart the factory male-female connection, and reconnect each piece to the complementary part from Ecklers. These 2 components will not be connected when you are finished. Basically, you will
take them apart, then cap them off so that they are no longer connected.

So,
Figure 1) you will start with the factory setup, and disconnect it:
click to enlarge


Figure 2) (Step 10). You will plug the factory male connector into the new female unit (2 black plastic pieces connected by 2 yellow wires)
click to enlarge


Figure 3) (Step 11) You will plug the new male connector into the factory female solenoid (beige part)

Last edited by MsSchroder; 11-07-04 at 09:15 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-31-03, 04:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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12. Secure the dangling connector using the zip tie that Ecklers sent.



13.reconnect the battery.
14. remove front wheel chocks.
15.drive forward off of the ramps, remove ramps, and go test it out!!
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Old 02-02-03, 07:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I liked the advice about "secure your long hair." Remembering your post about it in another thread!

I installed mine in about 10 minutes with the aid of the lift in the auto hobby shop on base. I absolutely love being able to choose what ever gear I like.
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Old 02-02-03, 07:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
I liked the advice about "secure your long hair."
Yep... that was the first thing I grabbed on the way out... the ponytail thingie. I'm not likely to make THAT mistake twice!

I just can't believe I waited this long to do it. I thought that the skip shift didn't bother me that much, until I did this fix and realized how much I had altered my driving style to get around it.
Driving around yesterday, and being able to select 2nd WHENEVER I wanted to, put the biggest grin on my face. That, and the satisfaction of doing the fix myself.
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Old 02-02-03, 08:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Default One thing I have wondered...

Would it be a wise thing to reconnect the skip-shift once a year or so just to make sure the solenoid is still working? Opinions?
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Old 02-02-03, 08:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't know the answer to that. What if it wasn't working... would that hurt anything?
I do think it might be useful to check underneath occasionally to make sure the harness and connectors were still secure and not melting. I read a post somewhere about someone who had a problem with that. I don't know how hot the transmission gets, but those plastic pieces look like it wouldn't take much to melt them.
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Old 02-02-03, 11:02 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Excellant work , MrsSchroder ! This topic comes up every couple of months . This should help alot of people . Cliff
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Old 02-02-03, 04:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Now that's what we like to see; members helping members while providing at the same time, a step-by-step procedure (with pictures!) of complete instructions as to how to perform the work.

It takes more effort and might seem like a waste of valuable time, especially when you are up to your armpits in work, but taking the time to photograph the steps involved, then typing the instructions is so very very helpful to others. Don't worry though if there are still questions about the procedure, there will always be more questions.

Thank you very much Tammy!
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Old 02-02-03, 04:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks Mrs.S. That was very informative. I would assume the procedure is the same on C4's. My only concern is; does unplugging CAGS give false signals and light up any "check engine" warnings, and will it cause problems when it is time for emissions testing? (required in my state) And again, thanks for the great info!
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Old 02-02-03, 04:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks, Ken!
Mac96: if you use the plug kit that I used, there will be no false signals, "check engine" warnings, or (as I understand) emissions problems. Now if you just disconnect the factory connector, and don't plug it back.... I don't know what happens, but I wouldn't advise doing that

My husband says I was remiss not to post a pic of how I secured the new connector and harness. I ran the zip tie through the bolt hole that you see in the closeup pic between steps 9 and 10 and secured it to it that way. I'll post a pic the next time I get the car up on ramps again

edit: see post 6, which has been edited to show the zip tie
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Old 02-02-03, 05:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great job Mrs S. I know of at least one new C5 owner who will be very interested when he sees your post.

- Eric
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