C4 full front suspension rebuild and lowering kit

[69MyWay]

This thread will contain some usefull info for anybody considering a full front suspension rebuild.

I ordered a set of new poly bushings from VB&P, new bilstein shocks, I am getting new ball joints, wheel bearings, and converting up to 13" front rotors and stainless braided brake line.

The first pic here is what you usually see when the wheels come off, before you start the job.

First jack the car up really high and support it. I suggest throwing the tires and wheels under the car to support it incase you knock it off the jack stands while hammering around under there.

[69MyWay]

Now, removed the caliper, brake hose, anti lock brake sensor and wire, disconnect the upper sway bar mount, and remove the rotor. You can also go ahead and remove the shock.

[69MyWay]

Now removed the spindle by supporting the lower a frame with your rolling jack, remove the aluminum suppor that goes on the lower X member where the spring comes out of the frame, pull the pin and loosen the castle nut on the lower a frame ball joint. A ball joint fork works well here to snap it apart. Remove the upper splash shield from the inner fender and now you can grab the two 18mm nuts that hold the upper a frame to the car. Remove the nuts, slide the a frame out, and keep the shims in together as you will want to put them back the way they came out to drive it up to the alignment shop.

[69MyWay]

Now you are ready to yank the spring.

It is held in with four 15mm nuts that are part of long studs that have 13mm heads on them coming down through the frame. After you remove these nuts, wiggle and jiggle, and the spring will work out the open hole.

[69MyWay]

Ahhhhh, nice fresh front spring (actually I just cleaned the old one up). The spring looked great, no fractures, no splinters, and nothing unusual.

Now, for the lowering kit I will be shaving the upper part off the spring mount. This will raise the spring in the housing effectively lowering the whole car.

[69MyWay]

Now for the real fun stuff.

Pressing the old bushings out is a real pain no matter what you do (for the shade tree mechanic like myself). There are a number of ways: burn them out, drill them out, press them out, hammer them out, cuss them out (oops, that last one does not work).

I get creative as possible with all my tools. In the next picture you will see a gear puller that I have fashioned unto the bushing and am pressing it. It worked rather well. I have a 50,000 ton press in the shop, but the a frames are too akward to fit in the press.

You have to remove the ball joint in the press, drill and grind out the studs in the upper a frame ball joint, and press all these bushings.

[69MyWay]

You clean freaks will love this. I always pretty much thought the front suspension in this car looked pretty clean. Boy was I wrong. In this next pic you will see the passenger side parts all scrubbed up and ready to go in comparison with the left side.

Now, I first scrape off any excess goo, then I simply use warm water, a scotch brite pad, and plenty of dish soap to gently scrub the aluminum clean and fresh.

[69MyWay]

I ran out of time tonight and my back is killing me from lifting the transmission up earlier in the day.

Later I will press out all the bushings in the driver side, clean those parts, then reassemble.

The lowering kit ($30) included longer studs for the rear spring. When the car goes back together I will adjust the rear spring studs to get the perfect stance considering how the front will be sucking the road. I will take some after pictures as I have plenty before. The difference should be stunning.

[geekinavette]

Great stuff...keep it comin!

I'm hoping to "refresh" my '84 suspension, front and rear, this winter, IF I can convince the wife to spend x-mas money on the Vette (in addition to the engine rebuild).

What is VB&P? Do the prices compare with what Eckler's sells for suspension parts?

Thanks!

Bill

[Ken]

Originally posted by 69MyWay
I have a 50,000 ton press in the shop...

I don't know squat about presses, but is that number realistic? You have the equivalent of the "largest forging press in the free world, the Loewy 50,000 ton press"?

_ken

[69MyWay]

Originally posted by Ken
I don't know squat about presses, but is that number realistic? You have the equivalent of the "largest forging press in the free world, the Loewy 50,000 ton press"?

_ken

Oooops, I stand corrected. It is only a whimpy 50 ton (I was thinking pounds tons, you know.......)

[Ken]

Sorry to be nit-picking, maybe I shoulda communicated in private eh?

[vms4evr]

Awesome Chris! I've been thinking about redoing the front end with all new ball joints, tie rods, etc. and poly bushings. I think I follow what you're doing but I also think you've convinced me not to do it myself. I've never gone beyond simply replacing shocks...

Great article though.

Graham

[69MyWay]

Originally posted by Ken
Sorry to be nit-picking, maybe I shoulda communicated in private eh?

Pick all you like, just keep the nit to a minimum

I was just taking a shower and realized what I meant to say anyway. If 2,000 lbs = 1 ton, then a 50 ton press would be 100,000 lbs of pressure....right? So, I got the 100,000 mixed up with the 50, and ta da! = 50,000. Of course, if you really believe that, then I should have come up with 500,000 ton press. Now that would be schweeeet.

[69MyWay]

Here is a pic showing how to remove the upper ball joint. I first center punched the rivet, then drilled the rivet out. This is a pain in the butt, however it yields quick quality results with a good sharp drill bit and a straight drive angle.