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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1984 - 1996 Corvettes > C4 Technical and Performance


C4 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1984 - 1996 Corvettes.

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Old 10-06-02, 07:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
darrellwest
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Default tb bypass and 180 thermosat

willl this all on help engine run cooler
 
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Old 10-06-02, 08:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1986 Bright Red Coupe
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180 T-stat will help engine run a little cooler, however, to really keep the temp down you need to have the fan come on sooner (manual switch or chip or replacement auto switch, depending). TB bypass won't run the engine cooler, but it WILL keep the intake air a bit cooler which will theoretically allow a bit more power from the engine.
[RICHR]
 
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Old 10-07-02, 04:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can get a manual fan switch from Mid America for 29 buks I do believe,. It works great, It allows U to run one fan or both fans manually when ever U want,160 stat will cool better also,I would check your factory stat temp, I know my 92 came with factory 180 stat allready, but I think( 93- on) came with 192 stat, I may be wrong about the 192 though,If ya get a aftermarket chip, I would recoment Ed Wrights Fast chip,cheapier then Hypertech and much more precise calibration,overall better buy.good luck.
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Old 10-08-02, 02:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default It's the system!

I just put a BeCool radiator and a FlowTech high volume water pump in; neither made my car run cooler than the stock pump and the HD radiator. Running my fan manually cooled the car quite a lot, but 160 is too cold (I am told) for these newer engines, which will probably NOT run that cool anyway, so all you do with a 160 is open up the stat, earlier. I was told that a newer engine, run too cold, will not pass emissions tests; 180 is my choice.

BTW, a tech at FlowTech told me that thermostats allow the engine and radiator water to be swapped. The thermostat cycles open and closed, as the cooled, radiator water rushes in and closes the thermostat. This explains the 'keeping the water in the radiator' comment by an old hot rodder. The install sheets from both of these companies, say heat problems may continue and that flow needs to be increased or decreased to solve it. I suspected restricted flow with my old 'stat.

There is a difference in how much the thermostats will flow. I got a Robert Shaw #330-180 at AutoZone for five bucks (vs 14 or so at Summit). Check the opening in a Stant vs a factory or a high flow 'stat. The Stant's was smaller, restricting flow. This larger hole allows the rest of the system to work. Now, I need to get more airflow when not on the highway; done by getting the fan ON at a lower temp.

How hot does your car run? Is the cooling airflow passageway clogged with road crap? (leaves, butts, hair, F*rds)

 
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Old 10-08-02, 07:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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On 9/12/02 I posted some reccomendations on how to make the car run cooler. A 160 degree stat helps but is not the only factor. Even with this stat a car can overheat. This only means that the stat will open when the water temp hits 160. But if the radiator is clogged, it will still overheat. I know these engines are made to run hotter because of emissions issues. But serious damage can occur if it overheats too much. I rather have a cooler running engine and deal with emissions later.
 
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Old 10-08-02, 12:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I didnt have any problems passing emissions,the engine still runs between 170-180, The fact that the Tstat opens sooner just allows the motor to cool sooner vs the factory settings,and if ya keep the fans off and let the computer turn them on at 228, that is way to hot for my liking, and others,.If I can cruise in the desert heat of 110 and still maintain 180, that is great. also remember that H2O has the BEST heat disspersion over any anti freeze,More anti freeze is not better, actually worse,although some is needed for proper lubrication of water pump seals and so forth, Also Water Wetter is a great addition to cut down on temps.I know the antifreeze issue depends on what part of the country U live in, due to Cold wheather and so forth.
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Old 10-09-02, 10:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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'89 dk red coupe
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I've managed to get my '89 with a 160 'stat to where the water temp will be 75 degrees above ambient at 70 MPH, level road, A/C off.
That is, at 95 F ambient, I'll see a top water temp of 167 - 170 F, and I like that just fine.
Lower water temp means lower oil temp, longer oil life, better lubrication, lower underhood temps and cooler intake air, overall better performance.

Running distilled water with 10% antifreeze in summer, 20-25% in winter. Tried "Water Wetter" and found no change.

- R
 
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Old 10-11-02, 11:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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your 94 already has a 180* Tstat, it came from the factory that way.
Just switching the Tstat by itself will not help that much.
You need to switch to a 160* and get a Hypertech Power programmer to reprogram the fans to come on earlier. This was the first thing I changed on my 94, I did it within a week of buying the car. Made a huge difference. Just in case you are unaware the Lt1 has reverse flow cooling so make sure you get a 160* Tstat specifically for the LT1 otherwise it will not work properly.

Emissions is not even an issue here.
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Old 10-22-02, 11:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
Vrotate
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Default 160 stat

Installed a 160 stat, and a new chip in my 87. My engine never runs above 180. The hypertech chip changed the fan settings.

Noticed a difference in performance after install!

Everyday vette

Vrotate
 
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